1205 A/W 2014
With the afternoon sun peering softly through the corrugated plastic roof of a tin shed within the London School of Hygiene and Tropical Medicine, the muted light echoed that of the beachside town of St Ives on England's dramatic Cornish coast. This was the starting point for Paula Gerbase's A/W collection. Here, the former Savile Row designer was inspired by the remote fishing village's community of 20th century artists, including the modernist curvatures of former resident sculptor, Barbara Hepworth. The result was a loosening of Gerbase's utilitarian design signatures, appropriating artists' smocks into swinging tunics and caped coats, while her pants widened to meet fisherman proportions, as funnel necks were inserted into shirting. In short, these were clothes that extended a creative freedom in their loosened proportions. Gerbase may have headed menswear label Kilgour for five years, but in this instance her technical skill-set and sophisticated fabric knowledge (she even mounted the season's star samples into her show notes), enabled the designer to cut an effortless ease into her silhouettes, seen through a raglan 'sweatshirt' of marbled boucle alpaca, or one navy look fashioned entirely from waterproof polyester, engineered to give a smocked appearance. Subtle nautical cues continued with her models' salt-tousled hair, and ribbed jumpers, modelled after traditional merino fishing knits. A naturalist mood that also seeped into her colour palate of navy, white, moss, plum and slate grey - all hues apparently well represented in the works of artists' of that region and era.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
-
The Macallan Horizon with Bentley Motors is a decadent whisky with a luxurious twist
The Macallan and Bentley Motors release ‘The Macallan Horizon’, a single malt whisky with a 180-degree twisted presentation
By Tianna Williams Published
-
Ruby Dickson’s Kim Kardashian paintings explore celebrity culture in London
Ruby Dickson’s ‘Maybe my fairy-tale has a different ending than I dreamed it would. But that’s OK’ is exhibiting at Nicoletti gallery, London
By Sam Moore Published
-
Mayfair’s Murano offers beautiful design and incisively cooked food
Angela Hartnett’s Murano celebrates 15 years of Italian supremacy in London with a fresh look by Fabled Studio
By Sofia de la Cruz Published
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019
By Dal Chodha Published
-
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine Rose
Though slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft Week
During London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimono
For the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
By Grace Cook Last updated
-
Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Christopher Kane A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Burberry A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated