Mood board: The theme for S/S20 was for a shared wardrobe. In 2013, Anderson stunned the audience with frilled bloomers and corsets for men – now such a look is the blueprint for London’s brightest young stars. And although its translation onto the street is taking a little longer, Anderson showed knitted shift dresses with tassels on boys for the coming season. The show featured sophisticated riffs on the tuxedo too. Lapels turned into fringed scarves and were worn naked, with slim trousers. ‘I liked the idea that the tuxedo tape started to blow up and fall off. That’s where we started,’ Anderson said. The look had a haphazard sensuality.
Scene setting: The show space was dressed with works by artists Kate Newby, Harry Kramer and Paul Thek. New Zealand born Newby’s ‘Make! A! Wave’ (2016) in porcelain was hung in the middle of the room and trilled as guests unknowingly brushed past. Suspended on coloured wires too were large globules of glass that seemed to sit still in mid-air. Casually arranged as if abandoned, a framed poster of Thek’s 1966 show rested against a column. Newby’s ceramics and found glass fragments were scattered on two more framed posters by Thek. There was a purposeful, radical nonchalance to the whole thing, a layering of generations, materials and ideas. ‘Grosses H’ (1962-1964), a large kinetic wire piece by the German sculptor Harry Kramer, took centre stage.
Sound bite: ‘I like this idea of craft goes machine. I was looking at Kramer – who did all these kinetic sculptures. He was a hairdresser and I found it interesting that you have someone who was doing hair, moving into art,’ Anderson said. Sleeves on trenches were slashes, creating a graphic shoulder line from the back; knits were slashed and caged, and had the air of tumbling around the body. ‘You have felted clogs and a grandmother-knitted look that looks like it has been passed down but there is modernity in the wrongness. As much as the look is very relaxed, there’s a precision to the edge. When you do a knitted sweater, it’s not part of something else, it’s one complete thing,’ he said.
-
This surreal new seafood restaurant in LA is the stuff of mermaid's dreamsAt Cento Raw Bar, delectable fare is complemented by playful, oceanic interiors by Brandon Miradi
-
What’s new in the wearable world of smart glasses, and extended and augmented realityAre you ready for AR? Meta, Google, Snap and more are gearing up to compete with Apple and deliver frames-based communications devices – complete with AI integration
-
Italian-Japanese fusion’s a joy at east London’s Osteria AngelinaA Victorian warehouse in Spitalfields has been given a slick modern makeover to house a unique Italian-Japanese restaurant
-
Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
-
Horace’s new men’s scent is the linen shirt of the fragrance closetVetiver Primavera, the new fragrance from men’s grooming brand Horace, is casual but elegant, says Wallpaper’s Mary Cleary – a citrussy scent for summer
-
‘Don’t forget to get the bread!’ Serge Lutens writes an ode to a singular perfumePublished exclusively by Wallpaper*, Serge Lutens writes an ode to Jeux de Peau, a singular perfume of his creation inspired by a childhood memory of baking bread
-
French skincare brand PERS doesn’t believe in overcomplicated routinesFrench skincare brand PERS – an acronym for ‘protect, enhance, repair, and stimulate’ – has recently arrived in the UK. The mastermind behind it, Dr Antoni Calmon, tells Wallpaper* about his protocol
-
What did Christian Dior’s favourite ‘invisible’ flower smell like?Dior’s Francis Kurkdijan recreates the scent of a rare lily of the valley species in Le Muguet, the first olfactory chapter of new perfume collection Les Récoltes Majeures
-
Inside Camperlab’s Harry Nuriev-designed Paris store, a dramatic exercise in contrastThe Crosby Studios founder tells Wallpaper* the story behind his new store design for Mallorcan shoe brand Camperlab, which centres on an interplay between ‘crushed concrete’ and gleaming industrial design
-
This perfume bottle archive was nearly lost. Now, it offers a rare whiff of fragrance historyFifty blueprints from a forgotten French crystal manufacturer will be for sale as part of the New York International Antiquarian Book Fair
-
How an 18th-century mansion became a Loewe wonderland for Paris Fashion WeekDrawing on the act of scrapbooking, Jonathan Anderson took over the Hôtel de Maisons with a self-reflective A/W 2025 presentation, shown alongside colourful artworks from the brand’s collection
