Mood board: Kim Jones’s S/S 2020 show felt confident and courteous to what has passed. The collection was framed around a collaboration with the American artist Daniel Arsham, known for his ‘Future Relic’ series (2013–2018) in which he imagines an array of everyday objects as archaeological discoveries from a future world. Arsham had previously worked with Dior on a series of window installations in 2011, when Kris Van Assche was at the helm. For Jones, he installed pieces around the show space that continued his dystopian thinking. In the middle, giant stone letters spelled out D-I-O-R with purple stalagmites and precious stones bursting through. The old breaking through the new; the archive breaking out of itself and into the future. S/S 2020 had a desert-faring mood too. Models walked on degrade sand that went from pink to white.
Best in show: Last season, the models stood on a 72-m-long conveyor belt, mirroring the heroic poses of neighbouring statues in the Tuileries Garden. This season, the sculptural approach influenced the clothes again. Shapes were supple and gently structured. Leather garments bonded and then sliced. Satin drapes wrapped around the body in an elegant, fluid continuation from last season. Half lapels on jackets fell into degrade scarves. Tone-on-tone Dior oblique monogram hinted at bas-relief. Sun-bleached neutrals and sheer fabrics lent the collection a sensual mood and sheer organza coveralls and t-shirts were worn layered. Newsprint socks revealed themselves underneath clear shoes and desert boots.
Team work: Models carried aluminium backpacks, hand cases and suitcases produced in partnership with eminent German luggage brand RIMOWA. The Dior oblique motif is inscribed onto the aluminium casing. A picnic case had a nook for a bottle of champagne. Elsewhere, in a nod to the brand’s history, Arsham has redesigned Galliano’s iconic newspaper print first introduced in the S/S 00 Haute Couture collection, and recast, eroded and remade Yoon Ahn’s jewellery designs as long-buried, modern relics.
-
This surreal new seafood restaurant in LA is the stuff of mermaid's dreamsAt Cento Raw Bar, delectable fare is complemented by playful, oceanic interiors by Brandon Miradi
-
What’s new in the wearable world of smart glasses, and extended and augmented realityAre you ready for AR? Meta, Google, Snap and more are gearing up to compete with Apple and deliver frames-based communications devices – complete with AI integration
-
Italian-Japanese fusion’s a joy at east London’s Osteria AngelinaA Victorian warehouse in Spitalfields has been given a slick modern makeover to house a unique Italian-Japanese restaurant
-
Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
-
Horace’s new men’s scent is the linen shirt of the fragrance closetVetiver Primavera, the new fragrance from men’s grooming brand Horace, is casual but elegant, says Wallpaper’s Mary Cleary – a citrussy scent for summer
-
Carine Roitfeld on the magic of DiorThe legendary fashion editor has teamed up with photographer Brigitte Niedermair on a special look into the famed French house's archives as part of the UBS House of Craft x Dior in New York
-
What can we expect from Jonathan Anderson’s Dior?As Jonathan Anderson is confirmed as creative director of Dior’s men’s and women’s lines – an unprecedented, history-making appointment – Wallpaper* looks forward to what we can expect from the boundary-pushing Northern Irish designer
-
‘Don’t forget to get the bread!’ Serge Lutens writes an ode to a singular perfumePublished exclusively by Wallpaper*, Serge Lutens writes an ode to Jeux de Peau, a singular perfume of his creation inspired by a childhood memory of baking bread
-
Maria Grazia Chiuri to exit Dior: ‘I‘m immensely proud of this chapter’Following her Cruise 2026 show in Rome earlier this week, Maria Grazia Chiuri has announced that she will be stepping away from her role as creative director of Dior’s womenswear and couture lines
-
French skincare brand PERS doesn’t believe in overcomplicated routinesFrench skincare brand PERS – an acronym for ‘protect, enhance, repair, and stimulate’ – has recently arrived in the UK. The mastermind behind it, Dr Antoni Calmon, tells Wallpaper* about his protocol
-
What did Christian Dior’s favourite ‘invisible’ flower smell like?Dior’s Francis Kurkdijan recreates the scent of a rare lily of the valley species in Le Muguet, the first olfactory chapter of new perfume collection Les Récoltes Majeures
