Mood board: Kim Jones’s S/S 2020 show felt confident and courteous to what has passed. The collection was framed around a collaboration with the American artist Daniel Arsham, known for his ‘Future Relic’ series (2013–2018) in which he imagines an array of everyday objects as archaeological discoveries from a future world. Arsham had previously worked with Dior on a series of window installations in 2011, when Kris Van Assche was at the helm. For Jones, he installed pieces around the show space that continued his dystopian thinking. In the middle, giant stone letters spelled out D-I-O-R with purple stalagmites and precious stones bursting through. The old breaking through the new; the archive breaking out of itself and into the future. S/S 2020 had a desert-faring mood too. Models walked on degrade sand that went from pink to white.
Best in show: Last season, the models stood on a 72-m-long conveyor belt, mirroring the heroic poses of neighbouring statues in the Tuileries Garden. This season, the sculptural approach influenced the clothes again. Shapes were supple and gently structured. Leather garments bonded and then sliced. Satin drapes wrapped around the body in an elegant, fluid continuation from last season. Half lapels on jackets fell into degrade scarves. Tone-on-tone Dior oblique monogram hinted at bas-relief. Sun-bleached neutrals and sheer fabrics lent the collection a sensual mood and sheer organza coveralls and t-shirts were worn layered. Newsprint socks revealed themselves underneath clear shoes and desert boots.
Team work: Models carried aluminium backpacks, hand cases and suitcases produced in partnership with eminent German luggage brand RIMOWA. The Dior oblique motif is inscribed onto the aluminium casing. A picnic case had a nook for a bottle of champagne. Elsewhere, in a nod to the brand’s history, Arsham has redesigned Galliano’s iconic newspaper print first introduced in the S/S 00 Haute Couture collection, and recast, eroded and remade Yoon Ahn’s jewellery designs as long-buried, modern relics.
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The first-ever lava lamp has been reissued, alongside a new giant versionThe manufacturer of the 1960s design icon presents a new, 3m-tall lava lamp, as well as a limited-edition take on the first ‘Astro’ lamp, in collaboration with Dutch designer Sabine Marcelis
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These are the best design exhibitions to see in Paris this weekAs Design Miami Paris and Art Basel Paris make their return, we round up the best design exhibitions to discover in the city
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Spice up the weekly shop at Mallorca’s brutalist supermarketIn this brutalist supermarket, through the use of raw concrete, monolithic forms and modular elements, designer Minimal Studio hints at a critique of consumer culture
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Inside Roger Vivier’s opulent new Paris HQ and archive, a haven for shoe loversWallpaper* takes a tour of ‘Maison Vivier’, an 18th-century hôtel particulier that houses the French shoemaker’s headquarters, studio and archive – an extraordinary collection of over 1,000 pairs of shoes
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The key takeaways from the S/S 2026 shows: freedom, colour and romance define fashion’s new chapterWe unpack the trends and takeaways from the S/S 2026 season, which saw fashion embrace a fresh start with free-spirited collections and a bold exploration of colour and form
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The independent designers you might have missed from fashion month S/S 2026Amid a tidal wave of big-house debuts, we take you through the independent displays that may have slipped through the cracks – from beautiful imagery to bookshop takeovers, museum displays and moves across the pond
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From wearable skincare to scented runways, unpacking the unconventional beauty moments of fashion month S/S 2026The S/S 2026 season featured everything from probiotic-lined athleisure to fragranced runways – and those Maison Margiela mouthguards
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Pierpaolo Piccioli makes Balenciaga debut ‘from a place of love and connection’Attended by Anne Hathaway and Meghan Markle, the ex-Valentino designer’s first runway display for Balenciaga took place within Kering’s Paris headquarters
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Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez make a bold start at Loewe, inspired by Ellsworth Kelly’s ‘elemental colours’The former Proenza Schouler designers presented their debut collection for Loewe this morning, channelling ‘clarity and colour, sensual physicality, and sunniness’
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‘Change is inevitable’: Jonathan Anderson’s first Dior womenswear collection recodes the house’s archiveAn audacious collection from the Northern Irish designer, presented in Paris this afternoon, saw him reconsider the Dior archive in his unwaveringly inventive style
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Acne Studios’ cigar salon runway set is decorated with Pacifico Silano’s homoerotic ‘objects of desire’Brooklyn-based artist Pacifico Silano breaks down his collaboration with Acne Studios, seeing his work – which zooms in on 1970s and 1980s gay erotica – backdrop the brand’s S/S 2026 show today in Paris
