Comme des Garçons Homme Plus S/S 2020 Paris Fashion Week Men's

Team work: The show – entitled ‘Orlando’ – was the first in a three act project by the brand. First is the S/S 2020 menswear show, staged in three parts, each bathed in its own pool of coloured light, directed by staging designer Thierry Dreyfus, accompanied by live drum music selected by Vincent Glanzmann. The show concluded with an array of black, form fitting tailoring-cum-dresses; the models wore knotted frill sleeve shirts. Act two will be the womenswear show in September and the third and final stage is a forthcoming collaboration with Austrian composer Olga Neuwirth, who is premiering a production of Orlando at the Vienna State Opera in December this year.
Mood board: Identity and gaiety were bound up in Kawakubo’s S/S 2020 collection, taking inspiration from Virginia Woolf’s gender-defying novel. Much like the book, the clothes explored transformation and liberation through time. Suiting had draping and scalloped edges. Elizabethan frock coats merged into archetypal men’s suiting. Bell sleeves jutted from tailored coats. Tapestries, lace and quilting deconstructed perceptions of sex. The frivolity of historical dress burst through; pink satin exploded from the middle of tailored jackets in floral jacquard. Multiple collars were layered and froth forward.
Finishing touches: The brand’s footwear collaborations are much coveted. For the coming season, the brand has worked again with British boot company George Cox, originators of the iconic creeper, who produced a red and violet version of the suede lace-up, crepe sole Popboy style. Nike’s Air Max 95 has been re-shaped too – it is the first time a company has been permitted to change its silhouette. ‘Vain trifles as they seem, clothes have, they say, more important offices than to merely keep us warm. They change our view of the world and the world's view of us,’ Woolf once wrote. How true.
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus S/S 2020
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus S/S 2020
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus S/S 2020
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus S/S 2020
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
A European-style café opens next to London’s Saatchi Gallery
Designed by Dion & Arles, Cafe Linea serves fresh pâtisseries, global dishes and sparkling wines in a stunning Grade II-listed setting
-
Home is where Beethoven Market is – a joyful Italian restaurant in LA’s Mar Vista
In Mar Vista, a historic space is reborn as a modern-day gathering spot, an Italian-infused restaurant where rotisserie chicken, handmade pasta and tableside tiramisu welcome you like family
-
This Canadian house is a precise domestic composition perched on the Nova Scotian coast
Bishop McDowell completed a new Canadian house overlooking the Atlantic, using minimal details and traditional forms to create a refined family home
-
‘They gave me carte blanche to do what I want’: Paul Kooiker photographs the students of Gerrit Rietveld Academie for Acne Studios
Heralding the launch of a new permanent gallery from fashion label Acne Studios, the celebrated Dutch photographer’s new body of work praises the bravery of ‘people who choose to go to an art school at a time like this’
-
‘I’m surprised that I got this far’: Rick Owens on his bombastic Paris retrospective, ‘Temple of Love’
The Dark Prince of Fashion sits down with Wallpaper* to discuss legacy, love, and growing old in Paris as a display at the Palais Galliera tells the story of his subversive career
-
The standout shows of Paris Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2026: Hermès to Kiko Kostadinov
Wallpaper* picks the very best of Paris Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2026, from Véronique Nichanian’s portrait of summer in the city for Hermès to Kiko Kostadinov’s journey to a fictional island
-
Paris Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2026: live updates from the Wallpaper* team
From 24-29 June, Paris Fashion Week Men’s arrives in the French capital. Follow along for a first look at the shows, presentations and other fashion happenings, as seen by the Wallpaper* editors
-
What the Wallpaper* editors are looking forward to at Men’s Fashion Week S/S 2026
As Men’s Fashion Week S/S 2026 begins in Florence, the Wallpaper* style team select the moments they will be looking out for – from Jonathan Anderson’s anticipated Dior debut to outings from Wales Bonner, Kiko Kostadinov and Prada
-
Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris
‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
-
Horace’s new men’s scent is the linen shirt of the fragrance closet
Vetiver Primavera, the new fragrance from men’s grooming brand Horace, is casual but elegant, says Wallpaper’s Mary Cleary – a citrussy scent for summer
-
‘Don’t forget to get the bread!’ Serge Lutens writes an ode to a singular perfume
Published exclusively by Wallpaper*, Serge Lutens writes an ode to Jeux de Peau, a singular perfume of his creation inspired by a childhood memory of baking bread