Scene setting: Mr Armani is elegance personified. His handsome style has influenced a generation of menswear designers who channel a relaxed smartness and aren’t afraid to tackle tailoring. During the recent streetwear boom the label has maintained its sartorial essence. Armani’s explorations into athleticism and activewear are left to his Emporio line; the Giorgio Armani label show for S/S20 was held outside of the darkened enclaves of Armani’s Teatro. For the first time in 20 years, the designer invited guests into the courtyard of his Via Borgonuovo headquarters. It imbued the show with a summery, sprightly spirit.
Mood board: The wardrobe proposed for the coming season is fitted around the shoulders and relaxed around the body; double pleat front trousers and open weave cardigans conveyed a seaside slouch. The formal meets the familiar with double-breasted waistcoats worn with the attitude of a T-shirt, or with jeans or under crushed denim blazers. A padded velvet style has hidden buttons, a hybrid of a military vest and smoking jacket.
Best in show: Armani is famous for aligning influences from the East with Italian flair. For S/S20, his quintessential Nehru and Mao collar styles appeared on shirting and a graphic jacquard blazer. Oversized shirts billowed in the hot Italian sun. Wild is the wind. §
