Giorgio Armani S/S 2020 Milan Fashion Week Mens

Backstage Giorgio Armani S/S 2020 — Giorgio Armani S/S 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Scene setting: Mr Armani is elegance personified. His handsome style has influenced a generation of menswear designers who channel a relaxed smartness and aren’t afraid to tackle tailoring. During the recent streetwear boom the label has maintained its sartorial essence. Armani’s explorations into athleticism and activewear are left to his Emporio line; the Giorgio Armani label show for S/S20 was held outside of the darkened enclaves of Armani’s Teatro. For the first time in 20 years, the designer invited guests into the courtyard of his Via Borgonuovo headquarters. It imbued the show with a summery, sprightly spirit.

Mood board: The wardrobe proposed for the coming season is fitted around the shoulders and relaxed around the body; double pleat front trousers and open weave cardigans conveyed a seaside slouch. The formal meets the familiar with double-breasted waistcoats worn with the attitude of a T-shirt, or with jeans or under crushed denim blazers. A padded velvet style has hidden buttons, a hybrid of a military vest and smoking jacket.

Best in show: Armani is famous for aligning influences from the East with Italian flair. For S/S20, his quintessential Nehru and Mao collar styles appeared on shirting and a graphic jacquard blazer. Oversized shirts billowed in the hot Italian sun. Wild is the wind.

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London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.