Sacai S/S 2018
Mood board: Chitose Abe’s style is to re-code the familiar. For her S/S 2018 Sacai collection – staged in a pastel, stepped wing of Christian de Portzamparc’s Cité de la Musique – she unpacked how the wearer attaches his own stories to clothes. Each of us do the seeing, trying and then embodying of fashion differently. For some it becomes a go-to uniform, for others an acting out against the norm. This collection was an idiosyncratic riff on utility wear. Re-mixed, Ripstop was here in oversize crew neck T-shirts, shorts and trench coats and then re-imagined in silk and devoré velvet with a shower of tiny leaves bleached out, mirroring the US military’s night camo.
Team work: The writing's on the clothes. Words are making something of an aesthetic comeback for summer 2018. At the Off-White show in Florence, Virgil Abloh collaborated with artist Jenny Holzer to project lines from poems by refugees on the walls of the Palazzo Pitti. At Yohji Yamamoto, ‘Too old to die’ and ‘I don’t just want any soft touch’ were graffitied across jackets and T-shirts. At Sacai, the bold typographic artwork of American artist Lawrence Weiner was printed on jackets and matching trousers. Weiner is a sculptor who works with language. He was a founding figure of post-minimalist conceptual art and words from his 2012 work STASIS AS TO VECTOR (ALL) IN DUE COURSE were printed and woven into street smart looks. Open to interpretation, and as ambiguous as Abe would like it to seem.
Best in show: As the desire for a neatly fitted formal suit has waned, designers have reinvented two-piece dressing in diverse ways. Fashion or function? You choose! At Junya Watanabe it was cargo Carhartt; at Cerutti 1881 it came in untreated denim; and at Loewe, Jonathan Anderson cut the house’s first suit in fine mohair, adding a varsity trim. Sacai focused on performance details; an MA1 suit had reflector stripe in place of the satin ribbon of a classic tuxedo. Single-breasted suits were in three layers of technical fabric. Another style had thick cowboy fringing worn with the shell of a deflated down vest and pants.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
Real Motors’ Project: ARES electric motorbike may revolutionise two-wheeled travel
Project: ARES is an all-electric sports bike with science-fiction styling and old-school performance. Its makers hope it’ll be a hit with a new generation of riders
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Hermès captures the sheer delight of summer with new menswear collection
Hermès’ diaphanous menswear for S/S 2024 is Véronique Nichanian’s ode to sultry summer days
By Jack Moss Published
-
Japan in Milan: the best of Japanese design at Milan Design Week 2024
Discover the best of Japanese design showcasing innovative designs from terrazzo tables to tree-inspired textiles at Milan Design Week and Salone del Mobile 2024
By Danielle Demetriou Published