Lemaire S/S 2018
Scene setting: Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran presented their S/S 2018 collection in La Générale, a former artist’s squat in the XIX arrondissement of Paris. The vast warehouse space, with a huge glass ceiling, featured a raised runway navigated by models, who then stepped down onto the ground level, from where guests sat and the Berlin band Die Wilde Jagd played a live set.
Mood board: The design duo took inspiration from the utilitarian and minimalist styles of seventies and eighties German bands. They were looks that wouldn’t look out of place in Gräfenhainichen, an open-air museum which is a train ride from Berlin, featuring disused quarry and giant mining machines. It houses Melt music festival each year. Severe band collar shirts and shiny bomber jackets came tucked into high-waisted trousers, and gilets and suede jackets featured utility focused popper or zip details. Lemaire’s typically neutral colour palette – a blend of charcoal, navy and khaki – also featured flashes of colour, like baggy silk trousers in teal, a creamy marble print bomber jacket in creamy orange and light grey, or a striking red shirt paired with grey high waisted trousers and leather slippers.
Best in show: A workman’s navy overall was elevated with chest pockets that gently widened towards the waist. A burnt orange suede jacket was delicately finished with white stitching, one of its chest pockets completely deconstructed.