Salvatore Ferragamo S/S 2018
Mood board: There was a light-hearted smartness to this S/S 2018 show. Guillaume Meilland’s second collection for the label was understated with an ageless quality that stretched from the sun-kissed Italian Riviera to the south of France. It opened with a short sleeved shirt appliquéd with seahorses worn with a chocolate brown slim fit trouser; a look that set the tone for a collection of breezy, beach-town separates. The fabrics too, from soft terrycloth and fat corduroy to lush velour, were beautifully easy – as was the colour palette of sun-bleached blues, pinks and white. Wreathes of corals and seahorses appeared subtly throughout.
Best in show: The silhouette was light and deconstructed in a way the show notes referred to as a ‘work-into-week-end versatility.’ Linen trousers were cut in an easy, pyjama style and nautical pinstripe cotton polos peeked from underneath roomy shirts. Classic British suiting fabrics made fluid, unlined jackets, shorts and suits. Work-wear oozed the easy glamour of Alain Delon and Marcello Mastroianni. Cotton windbreakers were rubberised and sleek coats bonded with jersey.
Finishing touches: Salvatore Ferragamo has been making shoes since the 1920s, so its rich archive inspired the traditional broguing designs on perforated suede jackets and shirts for S/S 2018. The quintessentially Ferragamo penny loafer came with an added rubber-sole; the label’s signature Gancino buckle featured in organic materials such as wood and horn.