Ermenegildo Zegna Couture S/S 2018

Ermenegildo Zegna Couture male models at Milan Fashion Week — Ermenegildo Zegna Couture S/S 2018

(Image credit: TBC)

Mood board: Artistic director Alessandro Sartori continues to present his vision of the modern man, having rejoined the company last year following his time at the creative helm of Z Zegna from 2003 to 2011. For S/S 2018, the collection maintained the sports-lux mood. Smart bombers, canneté cuffed trousers and suiting came in century cashmere, pure mohair and flowing washed silks which can be scrunched up into a ball. The fashion message felt fluid and fresh. Standout was a tailored suit in mesh jacquard and the evolution of the leather technique, Pelle Tessuta, which weaves together thin strips of leather in a contemporary take on artisanal textile on tailoring and sneakers.

Scene setting: Guests entered through a large maze, clad with bright green astro turf, puzzling mirrors and digital screens showing artisans at work in the atelier. The show was held in a futurist forest in the historic courtyards of the University of Milan. ‘I couldn’t imagine a better place than this courtyard, where I often spent time in my youth reading, writing and sketching,’ Sartori said.

Finishing touches: Twelve of the looks shown are available to order in selected worldwide boutiques. A selection of ready-to-wear and accessories can be made to order with additional handmade knotting, painting and embroidery. Mesh cut calfskin leather, suede intarsia, hand bleached denim – Zegna’s passion for the artisanal was on full display.

Ermenegildo Zegna Couture S/S 2018 menswear — Ermenegildo Zegna Couture S/S 2018

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London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.