Overview: A key reference for the fresh S/S 2018 collection from Richard James is the Whitney Museum of American Art’s seminal ‘Young America’ exhibition of 1957. It was there that a young painter by the name of Ellsworth Kelly caused quite the sensation. His three paintings Atlantic, Bar, and Painting in Three Panels, shocked museum visitors with their straight lines and separations. The works went on to shape much of Kelly’s vision and his reputation as a master colourist. Toby Lamb, design and brand director has translated Kelly’s passion for shape and colour into a range of softly tailored separates.
Best in show: A double-breasted silhouette prevailed with a much fuller, high waisted trouser. A new raglan shoulder added to blouson jackets and zip-front bombers created a relaxed, easy feel. Standout was a coffee coloured evening suit in nubby slub silk. This is sure to do well come awards season when the brand opens their first standalone store in New York later this year.
Soundbite: ‘There’s a 1950s aesthetic to the collection,’ explains Lamb. ‘The dusty pink, pistachio and coffee colours, the graphic hand-embroidery, the 1952 Field Jacket in a soft goat’s suede. We liked the idea of thinking about protagonists, like Kelly, and wondering what they might have been up to in their downtime hanging out in Long Island.’
Richard James S/S 2018
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The return of the bullhead: the watch design that refuses to conformLittle known outside of watch circles, but enthusiastically collected within them, bullhead watches have always been divisive. Identified by the crown at 12 o’clock, it made design sense – no digging into the wrist, allowing easier function as a stopwatch - but remains a speciality. But now, the bullhead is back
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Tour Peridot, Hong Kong’s hypnotic new barLocated on the 38th floor of The Henderson, Studio Paolo Ferrari’s latest project is a study in ‘light, refraction, and intimacy’
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Lighting designer Andi Watson on creating Mitski’s sculptural stage for 'The Land'In Mitski’s live show and new concert film, a single beam of light becomes her dance partner. Lighting designer Andi Watson discusses turning shadow, movement and restraint into the architecture of feeling
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‘Dirty Looks’ at the Barbican explores how fashion designers have found beauty in dirt and decayFrom garments buried in River Thames mud to those torn, creased and stained, ‘Dirty Looks’ is a testament to how ‘creativity and new artistic practices can come out of decay’, its curators tell Dal Chodha
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Tyler Mitchell’s London show explores the figure of the Black Dandy, ‘imagining what else masculinity could look like’Originally part of a visual essay to accompany the Met’s ‘Superfine’ 2025 Costume Institute exhibition, ‘Portrait of the Modern Dandy’ goes on display at Gagosian Burlington Arcade in London this week
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Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
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Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
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Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
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Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
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Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
