Mood board: For a tailor that began his career in 2002 with a shop on Lamb’s Conduit Street in London, Oliver Spencer has no doubt been influenced by the English capital. This season, the designer celebrated the diversity and strength of the city, one that just last week was subject to extreme terror and barbarism in the London Bridge attacks. Unlike some of the more subversive designers on the London schedule, Spencer has always designed clothes that men want to buy and wear. His ode to London’s inhabitants culminated in designs in dusty shades of pink, ecru and umber; lightweight coats, breezy cropped trousers and shorts, bomber jackets and casual suits. Stripes and checks also ran throughout the collection, seen in navy pinstripe blazers, Breton-striped sweaters and colourful checked shorts and shirts.
Team work: In 2014, Spencer opened a pop-up shop at Store 103 in Tokyo, which included a replica installation of a chair found in the studio of multidisciplinary British artist David Austen. For S/S 2018, Spencer collaborated with Austen on a series of slogan t-shirt prints, featuring the phrases ‘Women and Men’, ‘Face’, and most movingly ‘Love Town’. Models sported the latter at the climax of the show, in a symbol of unity and strength.
Finishing touches: Adding even more nonchalance to the relaxed silhouettes in the collection, outerwear was attached to backpacks and slung over the shoulders of models. It hung hands-free from their backs.
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Lighting designer Andi Watson on creating Mitski’s sculptural stage for 'The Land'In Mitski’s live show and new concert film, a single beam of light becomes her dance partner. Lighting designer Andi Watson discusses turning shadow, movement and restraint into the architecture of feeling
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Making mirrors with A Vibe Called Tech, the collective democratising designLast week, Wallpaper* Paris Editor Amy Serafin spent a day with a group of creatives led by Julie Richoz, making mirrors: here's what went down (and how to make your own)
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Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
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Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
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Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
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Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
