Chalayan S/S 2018
Mood board: Surprisingly, the cerebral Hussein Chalayan made reference to FOMO and Instagram likes in the notes for his S/S 2018 menswear collection. But it is pertinent from a designer whose oeuvre looks to understand so much of our immediate environment. A fleeting Instagram story is the new handwritten thank you note. Entitled 'Momentum', Chalayan’s collection had a large emphasis on sportswear; clothing originally designed to be in constant motion. His street fashion was rendered in light cottons, crisp wools and shirting voiles that moved elegantly and snapped into more formal tailoring. The silhouette was louche, as shoulders were lower and blousons high at the back.
Best in show: Sportswear and traditional active wear details were contrasted with jacquards and artisanal prints of leaves. Standout was a quilted kimono sports jacket with matching three-quarter length track pants.
Scene setting: Chalayan’s retail store – designed by London-based ZCD Architects – opened in 2015 and has provided the backdrop to his intimate menswear shows since January this year. For S/S 2018, the backstage was brought onto the street. Chalayan himself ushered models into the shop, each taking it in turns to walk around the large boat-shaped counter. The cramped photographs of the staging shared online do it little justice. You had to be there. FOMO indeed.
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London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
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