Mood board: Lucas Ossendrijver’s S/S collection for Lanvin wasn’t generated from a single reference point. 'I decided to go with room and creativity,' he said, taking the opportunity to experiment and play with the skills of the atelier. This resulted in a mix of smooth, classic menswear textures, worn alongside more industrial dry and matte finishes. The clothes took inspiration from items of the urban wardrobe; loose jeans had shortened cuffs, sports shoes were worn with coloured laces and striped shirts were layered to clash.
Best in show: The overall look was worn-in. Creases at the knee and tucks at the elbow had been skilfully sewn in before being pressed and unstitched, leaving behind a natural pleat lending a more romantic, softer look than normal. Applied to leather, the same technique brought the interior detail of a standout parka to the surface.
Finishing touches: Graphic flourishes were peppered throughout. Exposed topstitched lines ran down the length of plaid trouser pockets, the front of an oversize shirt or the sleeve of a jacket. Fat reflective strips were sewn, applied or ironed-on behind the knee on trousers or just below the elbow on roomy overcoats. Arrows, roses, tattooed babes and stars, cross-stitched and applied onto patches added to the folk-futurist mood.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
Celebrating supermodels: the oft-unsung heroes of architecture
Piercy & Company’s ‘Supermodels’ exhibition has just launched in London's Kings Cross, celebrating the art of miniature building
By Ellie Stathaki • Published
Vintage brass beads become flexible golden spirals in the hands of jewellery designer Carolina Wong
Discover Carolina Wong’s golden spiral jewellery
By Hannah Silver • Published
How Augustinus Bader became a billion-dollar brand in four years
Cult skincare brand Augustinus Bader has just become one of the biggest businesses in beauty
By Mary Cleary • Published