Lanvin S/S 2017

Mood board: Lucas Ossendrijver’s S/S collection for Lanvin wasn’t generated from a single reference point. ’I decided to go with room and creativity,’ he said, taking the opportunity to experiment and play with the skills of the atelier. This resulted in a mix of smooth, classic menswear textures, worn alongside more industrial dry and matte finishes. The clothes took inspiration from items of the urban wardrobe; loose jeans had shortened cuffs, sports shoes were worn with coloured laces and striped shirts were layered to clash.

Best in show: The overall look was worn-in. Creases at the knee and tucks at the elbow had been skilfully sewn in before being pressed and unstitched, leaving behind a natural pleat lending a more romantic, softer look than normal. Applied to leather, the same technique brought the interior detail of a standout parka to the surface.

Finishing touches: Graphic flourishes were peppered throughout. Exposed topstitched lines ran down the length of plaid trouser pockets, the front of an oversize shirt or the sleeve of a jacket. Fat reflective strips were sewn, applied or ironed-on behind the knee on trousers or just below the elbow on roomy overcoats. Arrows, roses, tattooed babes and stars, cross-stitched and applied onto patches added to the folk-futurist mood.