Raf Simons S/S 2016

Models with large chains over their shoulders — (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Scene setting: As if the runway show was merely a precursor to an illegal warehouse party on the outskirts of Paris, Raf Simons' set designers once again erected towers of scaffolding that criss-crossed around the cavernous hall, lit by industrial sized spotlights covered with red gels. Sure enough, hard techno began pounding and Simons' models stomped down the long runway as if they were too rushing to that imaginary rave.

Best in show: Raf Simons' wide selection of rain macs and maxi-chain rucksacks stole his spring show. Peering through the dark, it looked like the models were adorned with giant bike chains, which, on closer inspection, were indeed over-sized, oval-shaped links that had been laminated with plastic or coated in leather. Speaking of the finer details, multi-layered, clashing plaid prints peeped out from the upturned under-collars of coats, while maxi-pinstripe suits and wool-mix shorts were finished with cargo-style pockets on each thigh. It was as if city-boy casual had been put through an art gallerist's lens.

Finishing touches: Attached to rucksacks, the chains draped over the boys' shoulders and swung down to the knees. They looked heavy enough to be classed as weapons - but hung over Simons' over-proportioned macs (collars always turned up and high), themselves appearing as tents over the shrunken trousers and scuffed Stan Smiths, the entire look felt like art.

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans