Kilgour S/S 2016

Male models wearing the Kilgour Spring / Summer 2016 collection. The model is wearing a smart gray suit in both photos

(Image credit: Kilgour)

Mood board: How can the timelessness of Savile Row lead us to the future of fashion? Carlo Brandelli progresses the skills and craftsmanship by mingling the worlds of furniture, graphics and architecture with the formality and tradition of English tailoring. The focus has never just been on dressing well - effective contemporary design demands thought, precision and skill. Kilgour's latest collection builds on Brandelli's love for the flow and symmetry of the 'line' and handsomely acknowledges the working parts of a jacket that give shape and form.

Best in show: Focal is the complex balance between the past and the future. The vertical running lines that are key to classical tailoring are here exposed and explored at the front of deft, angled collar jackets. An evening suit in graphite wool with mother of pearl button, worn with a perforated suede Alcantara waistcoat, reflects a more playful mood for the sartorial pedant.

Sound bite: 'There is so much you can do with menswear but you have to think about it,' says Carlo Brandelli. 'I have always been interested in construction: a seam isn't just a seam. It can be something. With this collection, just like some architects might express a join, I wanted to draw attention to where the craft and the work go. It is this line of the jacket that gives shape, so we should show it.'

Images courtesy of Kilgour

Male models wearing the Kilgour Spring / Summer 2016 collection. On the left the model is wearing a gray suit and on the right he is wearing a navy suit

Male models wearing the Kilgour Spring / Summer 2016 collection. On the left the model is wearing a light grey shirt with dark smart pants and on the right the model is wearing a long sleeve light grey sports jacket

Male models wearing the Kilgour Spring / Summer 2016 collection. The model is wearing a dark suit in both photos, each with one button closed

London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.