Dsquared2 S/S 2015

Fashion's love affair with the art world has been burning furiously of late but Dsquared2's Dean and Dan Caten are the go-to designers to kick all seriousness out of the sometimes sober subject. For spring the duo presented their collection on a tableau vivant set with a traditional Parisian atelier, complete with the iron-trimmed glass ceilings, an enormous freight elevator and an artist in residence who sat thoughtfully sketching a buffed bronzed model wearing nothing but a skimpy neon pink bikini. It was as close to a nude as these boys could legally get. The clothes were spiked with the same kind of wink-wink fun. Kitty cat vinyl appliqués were scattered across a terry sweatshirt, Stephen Sprouse-esque graffiti was sprayed over trench coats and pants, while Basquiat-style figurines blazed on the back of trim square jackets. Despite all the high jinks, the brothers pulled off a clean, handsome collection that resides in the new fashion order. This season Dsquared2's clothes look positively polished, including its camo-front shirts and matching ties and its signature jean shape (low waisted, drop crotched, pegged legged) that now looks brilliant on well tailored khakis.

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans