It has been a winding road for Jonathan Anderson, who could today be considered fashion's gender-bending provocateur made good. Poised to reveal his first designs for Loewe in Paris this month, he chose a rather bucolic and British opening vision for the JW Anderson S/S 2015 men's show, translating the dense tapestry landscapes of RCA textile designer John Allen into a trilogy of cap-sleeve knit tops. They made an enticing graphic appetiser for the dissected tailoring and knitwear looks that followed - garments draped or abbreviated to reveal shoulders, midriffs, or the small of the back. Anderson credited the 'personality of the bourgeois woman' for those sensual abstractions, which were wrought out on shawl collar blazers, knit tank tops and open-necked wrap blouses all perched on loose, straight trousers. From striped silk twills to mealy cotton cable knit and flashes of tomato and violet wool, both Anderson's colour palette and textiles were inviting and varied - in what could be his most cohesive and commercial offer to date.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
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