Ermenegildo Zegna A/W 2019 Milan Fashion Week Men's
![backstage at Ermenegildo Zegna A/W 2019 in Milan](https://cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/K6cV7YDjssfra8RnyoBKHJ-415-80.jpg)
Scene setting: No-one has filmed the ordered chaos of a busy train station better than Alfred Hitchcock in his 1959 masterpiece North by Northwest. Though the police try to hunt their dashing fugitive from justice, they cannot break through the bustle and tempo all around them. Stations in major cities are vast energetic spaces. Paths cross, glances exchanged, routines played out. Now the grand foyer of Milano Centrale station became the stage for Alessandro Sartori’s autumn/winter 2019 show at Ermenegildo Zegna. Bureau Betak dressed it in large LED columns, onto which the endless scrolling of numbers – train timetables lost in translation – trickled up and down as the models walked. For a moment, we joined the 330,000 people who pass through the station every day.
Mood board: The collection of tailored pieces, confident outerwear and hardy, detail-laden boots were inspired by life in perpetual motion. ‘Borders keep being narrowed throughout the world. I felt the urge to advocate the power of openness and multiplicity,’ Sartori said. This multiplicity played out in a hybridized composition of sartorial codes. Cargo pants in smart wools had straps around the calves, reminiscent of a cyclist on the move; the wide lapels of classic men’s coats were grown onto short, cropped blousons. Storm cuffs poked out from the hem of smart trousers. Standout was a metallic jacquard with a repeat illustrated pattern of commuters reading the papers, cut into a lean suit.
Finishing touches: The company’s classic Cesare sneaker was worn in many variations and was available online for customization after the show. The high-top leather style with mesh inserts and XXX logo can be created in diverse ways. Sartori’s cross-generational, metropolitan vision goes from head-to-toe.
Ermenegildo Zegna A/W 2019. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Ermenegildo Zegna A/W 2019. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Ermenegildo Zegna A/W 2019. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Ermenegildo Zegna A/W 2019. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Wallpaper* Newsletter + Free Download
For a free digital copy of August Wallpaper*, celebrating Creative America, sign up today to receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
Celebrating James Barnor, the photographer who captured pre- and post-colonial Ghana
Photographer James Barnor is in the spotlight at 95, his work the subject of a series of exhibitions and events in Ghana
By Ugonna-Ora Owoh Published
-
Hideaway House in London features timber panelling inspired by the New York hospitality scene
The elegantly refurbished Hideaway House by Studio McW in London features timber panelling inspired by the Four Seasons in New York
By Léa Teuscher Published
-
IM Pei's Everson Museum of Art gets a modern makeover
The East Wing of the Everson Museum of Art in Syracuse, NY has been given a contemporary refresh by emerging Los Angeles studio MILLIØNS
By Ellie Stathaki Published
-
Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023: Fendi to Prada
From Prada’s exploration of archetypal menswear garments to JW Anderson’s much-anticipated debut in the city, the best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023, as it happens
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Giorgio Armani A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Bottega Veneta A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Ports 1961 A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
BOSS A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Dolce & Gabbana A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Salvatore Ferragamo A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
MSGM A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated