Pal Zileri A/W 2019 Milan Fashion Week Men’s
Scene setting: Ahead of his latest collection for Pal Zileri, creative director Rocco Iannone talked Modern Romanticism. The Giorgio Armani veteran has a poetic, baroque sensibility tailored to a new wave beat. The intimate show was set inside the exquisite golden neo-classical hall at the Società del Giardino, which was inaugurated in 1820. Its twinkling chandeliers, spotted coloured marble floor and pistachio velvet chairs were the perfect setting for Iannone’s graceful vision. Shapes and structures were sharp – but the feeling had softness. Couture detailing met the bomber, knits and coats.
Mood board: Italy is layered with byzantine masterpieces, gold frescos, endless, mystical palazzos and religious iconography at every turn. The industrial modernity of Milan, however, is in stark contrast to the idea of Italy as a living museum; it is a city where it’s impossible to avoid the clash of the ancient and the present. It asks designers: how can you be both faithful to a rich heritage of material manufacturing, yet take us somewhere new? Iannone continued to explore the Romantic elegance and artisanal techniques he has employed since arriving at the house in 2017. The show notes talked about escapism. Enlarged animal prints and jacquards were inspired by fairy tales. ‘I have taken the kindness of the animal metaphor to convey the frankness of the human message’ he said. The clothes had flamboyance and rigour. A double breasted silk wool suit with pin stitching detail down side of trousers. A Peacock feather jacquard and scored amber velvet blazer. The colours of Cornflower blue wool and red Burgundy.
Sound bite: ‘In describing a manifold masculinity, this season I have woven a net of references that merges sense and sensibility, baroque opulence and severity, the vernacular and new wave, suggesting that only in the balance between such opposites humanism, as a means of progress, is to be found,’ he said. Key was the modern take on evening suiting. There was a polished masculinity that felt completely confident. It was seductive. §