Alexander McQueen A/W 2018

Mood board: Our 2018 Wallpaper* Design Awards jury recently awarded the Best Men’s Fashion Collection to Sarah Burton’s lean, romantic offering for A/W 2017. Every season the McQueen label channels the same poetic punkish attitude, adding to it a new embellishment or weaving into it a new story. A/W 2018 captures a certain modern-day dandyish elegance; research went from the genteel metier of Savile Row to the seasoned sports separates worn by Ireland’s pony kids in the series of photographs taken by British photographer Perry Ogden in the nineties. This criss-crossing between archetypes of men’s dress means that the McQueen muse is always, at first glance, tailored and underpinned by a raffish ambience.

Finishing touches: the season offers classic tailoring in traditional fabrics yet proportions are rebellious. Shoulders are blown up and an hourglass waist is added to jackets. A slim flared trouser counters the prevailing trend for wide leg cropped pants seen everywhere else. There is a restrained, regal romanticism throughout – the models each wore a single gold pearl and precious stone drop earring.

Best in show: Burton’s shows always culminate with a parting opulence. The sombre opening set the tone: a grey chalk pinstripe suit worn with a deep V-neck knit, white shirt and tie. The show ended with the same model wearing a wide-shouldered black tuxedo jacket with white vest and patchwork black floral jacquard trench, tied around the waist. McQueen’s signature majesty comes in the form of hand-painted English roses scattered across silk tailoring, tapestry carpet coats and jet beading. Standout were the macro embroidered paisleys adorning big cashmere overcoats and a monochrome paisley jacquard suit.