How can we overcome the problem of representation, asks Collier Schorr in Paris
At Modern Art, Paris, Collier Schorr presents photographs, collages, notes, drawings and video for her first exhibition in Paris
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‘I have always thought of photography as problematic,’ says New York-based photographer Collier Schorr [b. 1963]. ‘I think some of the problems are solved by working long enough to address the issues - or to settle into the reality of the practice. I was always worried about taking pictures of women, which is why I shot boys for the first ten years of my career.’
Collier Schorr, Détournement, 2023
For four decades, Schorr has untangled the challenges in visually representing the body with her photographs which embrace the contradictions inherent in both identity and a more mainstream definition of beauty. Her work, including photographs, collages, video and drawing, encompasses fields including fashion photography, which she took up in the Nineties, partly as a way to address this problem of how to represent female and queer identities.
Collier Schorr, She had a suspicion that at some point she would be joined by others and that they were going to change things, 2023
Schorr continues to puzzle away at these problems, facing them head-on in the current exhibition at Modern Art in Paris. Problems and other stories - the title is taken from a John Updike collection of short stories from the Seventies - resists easy classification. Emotion, strength and power line the curves of the artists and performers in Schorr’s portraits here.
Collier Schorr, Constance Debré in a Leather Jacket, 2026
Included are works sparked by others, including Milo Cassidy, a trans man that Schorr has been working with the past two years. ‘The works featuring Milo in this new show was a kind of full circle: someone like me, but not walking around in the same identity,’ says Schorr. ‘For this show, the people may be less my problem and more: why am I a problem for others? How gender problems others. Sentence is intentional. But that wouldn’t be the show’s overarching mandate. Many bodies of work are floating around, but that could be a site of tension for all of them.’
For Schorr, the work becomes less about an understanding between artist and subject as she progresses throughout her career. ‘I used to see myself as the old woman in the shoe, with so many subjects I didn’t know what to do. It’s less like that at the moment because of the sense of community I share with people like Milo.’
The exhibition at Modern Art, Paris, Collier Schorr Problems, and other stories, 2026
Other works in the exhibition, including collages and photographs, are taken from Schorr’s video installation, Akerman Ballet, featuring seven dancers, including Schorr, following her ballet and modern dance training in 2018, Schorr began training in ballet, in advance of her full-scale adaptation of Chantal Akerman's 1974 film 'je tu il elle’. ‘I was so happy to escape using my eyes - or even my voice. There’s a quick discussion before each scene is danced, and then I disappear into directing with my body - or being pushed by another body. There is a different kind of release and discovery. In the beginning I felt a frustration that I didn’t have a camera in my hands, but I have long forgotten that, because for 90 percent of the time I don’t have it and don’t miss it. I like the look of an automated recording, and when I do pick it up it feels really intentional.’
Collier Schorr, 'Problems and other stories' at Modern Art Paris until 4 April 2026
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Collier Schorr, Found Torso, 2022–2026
Hannah Silver is a writer and editor with over 20 years of experience in journalism, spanning national newspapers and independent magazines. Currently Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*, she has overseen offbeat art trends and conducted in-depth profiles for print and digital, as well as writing and commissioning extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury since joining in 2019.