Paul Smith A/W 2017

Paul Smith Collection 2017 — Paul Smith A/W 2017. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Mood board: This collection paid homage to some of Sir Paul Smith’s most formative experiences, when he was employed by the International Wool Secretariat to tour the UK, searching for fine tailoring cloths and innovative design. However, for the first time since launching his label in 1970, he put both his men’s and women’s collections on one catwalk. They made charming companions, highlighting his knack for making unfussy, desirable clothes. The classically British patterns he used here – a Prince of Wales check and Black Watch tartan – featured on skinny suits and roomy coats.

Best in show: Key was a three-button beige suit in windowpane check worn with a tartan overcoat. The ‘Made in Britain’ mood prevailed with Scottish cashmere knits and Fair Isle jumpers featuring woven charm motifs and an exclusive Liberty print used in shirting.

Sound bite: ‘As part of the collection I’ve gone back to my roots, working with British mills that I’ve been familiar with since the beginning of my career, but using the cloths in weights and finishes that are relevant to today,’ Smith said. ‘A modern British feel with an unexpected mix of patterns, colours and textures.’

London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.