Louis Vuitton A/W 2017
Kim Jones journeys to New York City for his artists’ wardrobe-inspired collection
Mood board: The spirit of travel is at the heart of men’s artistic director, Kim Jones. Throughout his tenure, he has produced collections inspired by his childhood growing up in Kenya and Botswana and by trips to Jaipur, Tokyo and the Atacama Desert. His A/W 2017 collection looks to the West, in particular the dynamism and vitality of New York City circa 1970-1990. It was during this period that Jean-Michel Basquiat, Julian Schnabel, Keith Haring and Andy Warhol became legendary for both their oeuvres and outfits. Jones’ collection is an ode to the creativity and kinship of this group of men. Basquiat and Warhol’s own wardrobes were referenced here, combined with the logo-heavy, Harlem style of Daniel ‘Dapper Dan’ Day.
Best in show: There was a more urban attitude to the collection than previous seasons. Trousers were wider with an eased fit, and polished tailoring was fused with workwear. Silk, cashmere, vicuña and alligator were cut into more utilitarian shapes. Stand out were the silk pyjama shirts printed with collages of Vuitton advertising imagery from the thirties. And need we even mention the bright red Epi leather Louis Vuitton X Supreme bum bag?
Finishing touches: A year in the making, confirmation of Vuitton’s collaboration with cult skate brand Supreme almost (almost) broke the internet. After all, as Jones said, ‘No New York City men’s conversation is complete without Supreme.’ Established by James Jebbia on Lafayette Street in 1994, the label has quietly amassed millions of devotees around the world, recognised for its sharp streetwear and downtown cool. Shapes were taken from Vuitton’s 163 year heritage, pulled from the archive, while a new Monogram variation was interrupted with Supreme’s iconic, tomato red box logo. A range of jackets and shirts came in classic pale washed Japanese denim and camouflage jacquard. Be prepared to fight to own a piece.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
Anselm Kiefer's vast mixed media works take over Venice's Palazzo Strozzi
A new exhibition, 'Fallen Angels,' sees Anselm Kiefer present a combination of old and new works that reflect Palazzo Strozzi's unique position within the Florentine Renaissance
By Finn Blythe Published
-
Misha Khan masters anti-conformism with a furniture collection inspired by human shapes
Misha Khan presents 'Morphologica' a collection including a sofa and an armchair for the eclectic Italian brand Meritalia, marking the American designer's first collaboration with a furniture brand
By Maria Cristina Didero Published
-
Hudson Valley Residence is a low-lying retreat that seamlessly blends into the horizon
Designed by HGX Design, Hudson Valley Residence is a scenic home offering unobstructed views across the Catskill Mountains in Upstate New York
By Tianna Williams Published
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from A/W 2022 menswear shows
A Kubrickian space odyssey at Prada; a recreation of the Pont Alexandre III in Paris at Dior; and colourful, artist-created flags at Loewe: explore the best runway sets from the A/W 2022 menswear shows
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2022: Louis Vuitton to Loewe, Dior to Hermès
In this extended report, Laura Hawkins reveals 9 highlights from Paris Fashion Week Men's A/W 2022. Including: Virgil Abloh's final collection for Louis Vuitton; Rick Owen's riff on sleaze; elfin-inspired accessories; and a celebration of slouch and surrealism
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Louis Vuitton pays tribute to Virgil Abloh in Miami
The French luxury maison – of which the late Virgil Abloh was men’s artistic director until his passing on Sunday 28 November 2021 – held a show in Miami in tribute to the creative innovator, titled ‘Virgil was Here’
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2021: discotheque chic to apres-ski sleek
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated