Louis Vuitton A/W 2017
Kim Jones journeys to New York City for his artists’ wardrobe-inspired collection
Mood board: The spirit of travel is at the heart of men’s artistic director, Kim Jones. Throughout his tenure, he has produced collections inspired by his childhood growing up in Kenya and Botswana and by trips to Jaipur, Tokyo and the Atacama Desert. His A/W 2017 collection looks to the West, in particular the dynamism and vitality of New York City circa 1970-1990. It was during this period that Jean-Michel Basquiat, Julian Schnabel, Keith Haring and Andy Warhol became legendary for both their oeuvres and outfits. Jones’ collection is an ode to the creativity and kinship of this group of men. Basquiat and Warhol’s own wardrobes were referenced here, combined with the logo-heavy, Harlem style of Daniel ‘Dapper Dan’ Day.
Best in show: There was a more urban attitude to the collection than previous seasons. Trousers were wider with an eased fit, and polished tailoring was fused with workwear. Silk, cashmere, vicuña and alligator were cut into more utilitarian shapes. Stand out were the silk pyjama shirts printed with collages of Vuitton advertising imagery from the thirties. And need we even mention the bright red Epi leather Louis Vuitton X Supreme bum bag?
Finishing touches: A year in the making, confirmation of Vuitton’s collaboration with cult skate brand Supreme almost (almost) broke the internet. After all, as Jones said, ‘No New York City men’s conversation is complete without Supreme.’ Established by James Jebbia on Lafayette Street in 1994, the label has quietly amassed millions of devotees around the world, recognised for its sharp streetwear and downtown cool. Shapes were taken from Vuitton’s 163 year heritage, pulled from the archive, while a new Monogram variation was interrupted with Supreme’s iconic, tomato red box logo. A range of jackets and shirts came in classic pale washed Japanese denim and camouflage jacquard. Be prepared to fight to own a piece.