Valentino A/W 2014

A subtext of masculine 'couture' was layered through the Valentino Men's collection for A/W 14, referencing both the softly enveloping shapes and the sheer man-hours laboured over double-face cashmere in the house's Roman ateliers. With designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli christening their world-first menswear emporium on Rue Saint-Honoré after the show, it was time for the Valentino man to think of home, and how better to do it than wrapped in Cubist, carpet flannel and shearling, or those louche, cashmere numbers? A distinct nautical undertone accompanied the warm geometries of the collection, with a dockside denim boilersuit making more than one appearance and stiff, embellished bucket hats accenting relaxed, four-button tailoring looks. The appliqué wings of an intricate owl wrapped around a pair of overcoats popped up mid-show, as a motif borrowed from the women's pre-fall. All sound rather opulent? It was, yet it felt modern when juxtaposed with the season's white sneakers (à la Stan Smith, whose iconic Adidas shoe relaunched coincidentally on the same day).
Photography: Anna Stokland/Jason Lloyd-Evans
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
This surreal new seafood restaurant in LA is the stuff of mermaid's dreams
At Cento Raw Bar, delectable fare is complemented by playful, oceanic interiors by Brandon Miradi
-
What’s new in the wearable world of smart glasses, and extended and augmented reality
Are you ready for AR? Meta, Google, Snap and more are gearing up to compete with Apple and deliver frames-based communications devices – complete with AI integration
-
Italian-Japanese fusion’s a joy at east London’s Osteria Angelina
A Victorian warehouse in Spitalfields has been given a slick modern makeover to house a unique Italian-Japanese restaurant
-
Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris
‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
-
Inside the new Fondazione Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti in Rome, which opens with an ode to ‘Valentino Red’
Wallpaper* gets a private tour of the new Roman institution, PM23, which opens with an exhibition of ‘dialogues’ between Valentino Garavani’s designs and a catalogue of red-hued contemporary art
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Valentino’s theatrical new exhibition celebrates the house founder’s 90th birthday
At Teatro Sociale di Voghera, a new exhibition marks seminal designer Valentino Garavani’s 90th birthday, collating pieces from his time at the helm with ‘Valentino red’ taking centre stage
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Valentino’s new Beijing exhibition explores the role of fashion
‘Re-Signify Part Two’ juxtaposes items from the Valentino archive and the work of contemporary artists such as Cao Fei, Xu Zhen, and Nick Knight
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Valentino Des Atelier Haute Couture sees fashion and art collide
Seventeen contemporary artists enter a dynamic dialogue around dressing to create Valentino’s A/W 2021 Des Ateliers Haute Couture collection