Salvatore Ferragamo A/W 2014

Massimiliano Giornetti eased into next Autumn with a collection that sung quietly, yet powerfully, from start to finish. Though his press notes hinted that we might be hitch hiking with a band of nomads, the reverse was actually true. We sauntered along with a glossy group of well-groomed men dressed sharply in luxurious layers. The outerwear in this collection was an unexpected treat. Cut with slim, clean lines that prevented excess bulk, the duffle coats, pea coats and cropped jackets all had a condensed, compact look. Giornetti played with surface this season, paving his wools and cashmeres with bumps, and dip dying mohair in graphic horizontal stripes. Tapestry motifs ran vertically down the back of belted coats, like an extra backbone, while pinstripes on suiting had a painterly hand. The cropped mountain jackets in suede or pony skin looked excellent with tailored pleat front pants. But what really brought this collection together was a dreamy palette of tobacco, saffron, camel, burnt orange and almond green that melted together like a mountain sunset.