Celine’s latest collection captures the essence of Parisian style
The latest filmic runway show from creative director Hedi Slimane sees a collection of contrasts backdropped by Paris’ historic Hôtel de la Marine and Hôtel des Invalides
‘Dans Paris’, reads the title card for Hedi Slimane’s latest filmic outing for Celine, presenting the house’s A/W 2022 womenswear collection in lieu of a physical runway show. After a brief sortie to the sunny south of France last season – Slimane’s S/S 2022 collection was shown against the picturesque backdrop of Nice’s famed beachfront avenue Promenade Des Anglais – it sees the Celine woman once again supplanted to her spiritual home city of Paris.
Juxtapositions have defined Slimane’s tenure at Celine thus far: the insouciance of youth with feats of age-old Parisian craft, masculine with feminine, grit with romance. Here, contrast is envisioned in architecture and interiors, the film’s opening shots cutting between the Romanesque pillars of the historic Hôtel de la Marine – a building conceived in the 18th century by Ange-Jacques Gabriel, the architect behind Versailles’ Le Petit Trianon and the ‘epitome of French classicism’, as Celine describes – and the angular modernist columns of an ephemeral ‘architectural pavilion’ showspace created for the film in the grounds of Hôtel des Invalides. (Imagined by Slimane, it is the first new structure of its kind from the house since his inaugural Celine show in 2018, and perhaps hints at a possible return to the runway in coming seasons.)
Celine A/W 2022: A return to Paris
The film captures the collection between these juxtaposed locations, models striding at once through the lavish gilded interiors of Hôtel de la Marine’s Salons d’Apparat – marking the first time a fashion show or campaign has taken place in the highly decorative rooms since an extensive renovation – and the interior of Slimane’s pavilion, an expansive black-walled space edged with vertical pillars of light. Cut together, it provides an apt backdrop for a collection that distils the designer’s contemporary play on classic Parisian style.
Such moments of contrast are found in the collection itself, epitomised in the opening look, comprising a caped top – its generosity of fabric and elegant line recalling the abundance of couture – worn with a pair of frayed-hem jeans (a requisite pair of cats-eye sunglasses complete the look). Elsewhere, a wide-shouldered tailored jacket is thrown over a plunging sequined party dress; a Celine-branded technical anorak worn with a glimmering silver pencil skirt; lug-soled biker boots with a high-glamour off-the-shoulder leather mini. A clean-lined riff on the corset top in black appears throughout; worn with jeans or underneath a hoodie, it feels released from connotations with constriction – the past, made new.
As ever, Slimane also used the moment to highlight a rising musical talent – this season, the soundtrack was created by Hennessey, the musical project of Leah Hennessey, a New York ‘multi-hyphenate artist and writer’. The song itself is titled ‘Byron is Dead’, part of an ongoing obsession with the 19th-century poet by the musician (her upcoming film is titled Byron & Shelley: Illuminati Detectives). Lisa, a member of K-pop band Blackpink, also features in the show itself.
INFORMATION
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.
-
Tech Editor, Jonathan Bell, selects six new and notable Bluetooth speaker designs, big, small and illuminating
These six wireless speakers signal new creative partnerships and innovative tech approaches in a variety of scales and styles
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
As London’s V&A spotlights Mughal-era design, Santi Jewels tells of its enduring relevance
‘The Great Mughals: Art, Architecture and Opulence’ is about to open at London’s V&A. Here, Mughal jewellery expert and Santi Jewels founder Krishna Choudhary tells us of the influence the dynasty holds today
By Hannah Silver Published
-
London bar Bauhaus Warehaus is a factory by day, drinking den by night
Mixologist of the moment Remy Savage shakes up the world of cocktail-making with a hardworking sibling to A Bar with Shapes for a Name, his Bauhaus-inspired bar enterprise in east London
By Neil Ridley Published
-
Celine Saint Honoré is dedicated to Hedi Slimane’s feats of savoir-faire and craft
The Celine store on Rue Saint-Honoré is designed to capture the spirit of Paris, showcasing the house’s most precious offering. Here, Wallpaper* captures Celine’s couture, Haute Maroquinerie and Haute Parfumerie collections in the luxurious space
By Jack Moss Published
-
Summer games, from pétanque to pool floats, get a fashionable spin
From a luxurious pétanque set to pool floats and playing cards, summer games and toys from the world’s best-known fashion houses
By Jack Moss Published
-
Celine cruises into Nice beachfront for S/S 2022
For the Celine S/S 2022 show, the Parisian maison took a picturesque pitstop at the Nice beachfront on the French Riviera, with a womenswear spectacle that celebrated the seaport city's architectural landmarks
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Celine S/S 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Celine A/W 2019 Paris Fashion Week Women's
Hedi Slimane subverts bourgeois Seventies style
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Celine S/S 2019 Paris Fashion Week Women's
Hedi Slimane presents his anticipated debut for the house
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Céline S/S 2018
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Céline A/W 2016
Next season is still about the pant, however this time its long, lean, languid and cut into a fierce bell bottom at Céline
By JJ Martin Last updated