Brioni’s new Chipperfield-designed Paris flagship marks the start of a new era

Brioni’s new Chipperfield-designed Paris flagship marks the start of a new era

After a year of design work and preparation, Italian menswear brand Brioni has opened the doors to its new David Chipperfield-designed store on Paris’ label-laden Rue Saint-Honoré.

Conceived as both a ‘gallery of clothes’ and a ‘destination point’, David Chipperfield Architects Milan set out to create a store concept that intertwines Brioni’s Roman roots and tailoring traditions with a new vision for its future set out by newly-appointed creative director Justin O’Shea. Following his appointment in April, O’Shea wasted no time in making his mark by revamping Brioni’s historical logo with a gothic-style font and hiring Metallica to star in the A/W 2016 ad campaign.

Architecturally, this fusion of past and present translates into classic materials such as grey travertine floors and walls – a reference to ancient Rome – being placed alongside more experimental elements such as a series of transparent metal mesh partitions and fixtures that generate a sensation of openness.

Spread across two floors linked by a giant stage-like staircase, the studio has created three zones within the 590 sq m space – the main store space, the VIP area and the changing rooms – all of which are defined by the change of experience and ritual rather than by the change of materials. ‘The idea behind the store display furnishing is that it should be adaptable and flexible, positioned in such a way that the store architecture becomes the background of the products,’ explain the architects, citing Mies van der Rohe as a key influence.

O’Shea affectionately describes the new concept as ‘a cool mix between branding, design and retail… and definitely one of the most beautiful stores I have ever seen.’

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