Margaret Howell celebrates the ‘modern and grounded’ work of British weaver Peter Collingwood with a rare exhibition and calendar
One of the 20th century’s seminal weavers, the exhibition provides a serene respite from Frieze London, unfolding in Margaret Howell’s London store
Frieze London, as Wallpaper* arts and culture editor Hannah Silver recently wrote, is an event ‘which very much ignores the parameters of the park’, with a slew of gallery openings, exhibitions and cultural happenings unfolding this weekend away from the (somewhat frenetic) buzz of the main Regent’s Park tents.
Several of these exhibitions have made use of this idea of respite: Peter Doig, for example, invites visitors to ‘sit, linger, take a nap’ at his new show ‘House of Music’ at the Serpentine Galleries, while Elmgreen & Dragset’s new site-specific installation at Town Hall in King’s Cross, invites guests into a surreal cinema, where they can sit among the art duo’s hyperrealistic human figures (part of Prada Mode, the house’s roving private members’ club, the space will also host a series of talks, lectures and screenings).
Meanwhile at Margaret Howell, a satisfyingly sedate new show of works by British weaver Peter Collingwood unfolds in the British fashion label’s light-filled Wigmore Street store. ‘One of the most important weavers of the 20th century,’ is how the brand describes Colingwood’s serene works, which here span the 1960s to the early 2000s.
‘The graphic quality of Peter Collingwood’s weavings has always appealed to me,’ says Howell. ‘They feel modern but grounded – shaped by a deep understanding of material, and a belief in what can be achieved through simple means and thoughtful design.’
‘His work feels modern but grounded – shaped by a deep understanding of material, and a belief in what can be achieved through simple means and thoughtful design’
Margaret Howell
Defined by their geometric, often zig-zagging forms, Collingwood – who died in 2008 – began his career in medicine before turning to weaving in the 1950s, learning under figures like Barbara Sawyer and Alastair Morton. A voracious experimenter, he made his own equipment, going on to sell rugs to Heal’s and Liberty, before exhibiting around the world.
He is best known for his ‘Macrogauze’ works, which provide the centrepiece of this new exhibition (pieces have been painstakingly sourced from both private and public collections for the display). Abstract in design, they are defined by a loose weave, crafted from linen thread and steel rods. Some are three-dimensional, others are woven to sit flush to the wall. The exhibition, says Margaret Howell, offers ‘ rare opportunity to view these intricate works up close’.
‘With Macrogauzes you are two completely different people – when you are working out the design on paper you are using your aesthetic sense, sense of proportion and so on,’ said Collingwood. ‘When you are making it, you are an engineer – you have to be absolutely sure the tension is correct. So after acting as an artist to design the drawing you become a technician to make it as perfect as possible.’
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Alongside, Margaret Howell has created a 2026 calendar featuring Collingwood’s works. On sale at the exhibition, it makes for an early addition to the gift list of any design aficionado.
Peter Collingwood Macrogauze Wall Hangings runs until 2 November, 2025 at 24 Wigmore Street, London W1 .
The 2026 calendar will be available to buy in all Margaret Howell shops and online.
Jack Moss is the Fashion & Beauty Features Director at Wallpaper*, having joined the team in 2022 as Fashion Features Editor. Previously the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 Magazine, he has also contributed to numerous international publications and featured in ‘Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers’, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.
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