‘A fuller and silkier sillage’: Acqua di Parma dials up the intensity of Blu Mediterraneo

Acqua di Parma first unveiled its Blu Mediterraneo collection a quarter of a century ago with Arancia di Capri, an invigorating melange of orange, mandarin and lemon, underscored by petit grain, cardamom and caramel.

Contained inside a bottle, blue like the Tyrrhenian sea, its transportive notes told the story of a balmy sojourn on the Mediterranean coast. 25 years on, a new chapter begins for Arancia di Capri, which now joins two other quintessential scents from the Blu Mediterraneo line – Fico di Amalfi and Mirto di Panarea – in Blu Mediterraneo: La La Riserva. Here, each composition has been reinterpreted via a two-month-long maceration process, dialling up their intensity and sillage.

Paola Paganini, Acqua di Parma’s head of product development, takes Wallpaper* through the making of Blu Mediterraneo: La Riserva, and why the resulting collection delivers a ‘profound olfactory experience’ that lingers like a summer well spent.

The making of Acqua di Parma’s Blu Mediterraneo: La Riserva

Wallpaper*: Why were Fico di Amalfi, Mirto di Panarea, and Arancia di Capri chosen for reinterpretation in the La Riserva collection?

Paola Paganini: These three fragrances are among the most emblematic in the Blu Mediterraneo universe. Each one evokes a distinct Italian landscape – Amalfi, Panarea, and Capri – and expresses the essence of summer through vibrant, natural ingredients. They were chosen because they embody the sensory and emotional identity of the Mediterranean. With Blu Mediterraneo: La Riserva, we wanted to explore these well-loved scents from a new angle – slower, deeper, and more textured – while preserving their recognisability.

W*: How were the final notes in each of the Blu Mediterraneo: La Riserva fragrances decided? And, how do they compare to the originals?

PP: The starting point was always the original composition. From there, our perfumers reworked the formulas with the intent to magnify complexity, depth, and longevity, qualities brought forward by the extended maceration process. The goal was not to replace the originals, but to reinterpret them with a more intense, lingering signature.

W*: Can you explain the maceration process in the making of an Acqua di Parma fragrance? How does it work, and how long does it usually take?

PP: Maceration is the final, resting phase in fragrance creation. Once all ingredients have been blended in the alcoholic formula, the concentrate is left to mature undisturbed. This allows the different notes to settle, round off, and interact in harmony. Typically, this process lasts up to two weeks. It’s an essential step in achieving balance and richness in the finished scent.

W*: Why was the maceration period extended for the Blu Mediterraneo: La Riserva collection?

PP: Time is the most precious ingredient in this collection. We extended the maceration to a full eight weeks to allow the formulas to mature at a much slower pace. This longer resting time brings out subtler facets in the ingredients, adds depth and texture, and gives each fragrance a fuller and silkier sillage. It’s our way of honouring the Mediterranean’s slower rhythm, where things ripen under the sun and are savoured with intention.

W*: The La Riserva bottles are a deeper shade of blue. How was this shade chosen?

PP: We wanted the bottle to reflect the richness and depth of the fragrance inside. This deeper blue draws from the intense hues of the Mediterranean at dusk, when the sea turns inky and the air becomes still. It signals a more profound olfactory experience, while remaining within the recognisable Blu Mediterraneo aesthetic.

W*: How does the Blu Mediterraneo: La Riserva collection capture the spirit of an Italian summer?

PP: Blu Mediterraneo: La Riserva is a celebration of the Italian summer lived slowly. From hand-harvested ingredients kissed by the sun to the patient maceration process, everything about these fragrances evokes time spent outdoors, natural light, and a sense of ease. They are not only inspired by Mediterranean landscapes: they are shaped by them. Each one is an olfactory memory, designed to linger like a summer well spent.

Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo: La Riserva is available now.

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