The artistry of Japanese wine

If, like me, you have a curious nose for out-of-the ordinary tipples then you'll be delighted by a brand-new partnership in arguably one of east London's most exciting places to eat. For the month of September, Luna Omakase, the exclusive 12-seat Sosaku-style Edomae dining experience, (which nestles, hidden away inside the vibrant quarters of Los Mochis on the 9th floor of 100 Liverpool Street,) plays host to an extraordinary 12-course Japanese wine pairing menu, which evolves around the 12 phases of the moon.

Get acquainted with Luna Omakase, a dining experience based on moon phases

The partnership is the brainchild of head sommelier, Michele Orbolato and executive chef Leonard Tanyag, aiming to shine a light on the rich complexity of Japanese wines, specifically those from Chateau Mercian, the oldest established winery in Japan, which traces its roots back to 1877.

Based largely in the prefecture of Yamanashi, which is well documented for its wonderful, sweeping mountainous terrain, Mercian pioneered and perfected the vinification of Japan's first indigenous grape variety, Koshu. As a varietal it is famed for its minerality and flintiness, with a touch of citrus, making it an ideal bedfellow for pairing with rich, fatty fish like bluefin tuna belly.

However, Mercian isn't just adept at working with Koshu and since 1976, under the stewardship of Shogo Asai - arguably the father of modern Japanese wine - Mercian has also been crafting wines using a surprising array of European varietals: firstly, Merlot in the Kikyogahara region and then in 1984, it began experimenting with Cabernet Sauvignon and later on, Chardonnay. Its international credentials and ambitions were bolstered in 1988 with the appointment of Paul Pontallier, the former technical and managing director of Chateau Margaux as technical advisor, leading to award winning wines and wider acclaim in the upper echelons of the fine wine community.

Four of Mercian's wines are paired across the 12-course menu, which itself is split into five separate parts, delivered with exquisite precision and storytelling by Tanyag and his three-strong team, who calmly prepare and serve each dish in as you watch on in awe.

Part one and two showcases Mercian's versatile Rivalis 'Left Bank' Chardonnay from 2020 as well as its Koshu Ortum 2021 (which has an outturn of just 1,100 bottles) - and focuses on fish, with an Australian Amberjack Kampachi Crudo (a tangy, wasabi-led dish with red shiso) Bluefin tuna tartare, with Oscietra caviar, fresh wasabi and shari crackers, served in mysterious volcanic orbs which emanate smoke, and finally, sweet King Crab legs with yuzu, before delving into a precisely layered and complex trio of nigiri.

Another Koshu, this time a Gris-de-Gris 2022 (with similarities to a bold and orchard fruit-laden orange wine,) is paired with a grilled yellowtail tartare with fresh black truffle, as well as a further Oscietra caviar dish and Hotate Aburi - a rich and very complex dish with seared scallop, Goma truffle and balsamic figs.

The menu and stories from Chef Tanyag move swiftly into his childhood favourites, the highlights being a BBQ Unagi handroll with freshwater eel and miso gochujang and an incredible A5 Wagyu Sando - a precisely cut, and beautifully soft sandwich, with rice flower bread and wasabi leaf, which pairs wonderfully with the Mercian Mariki Syrah, with hints of minerality and spice.

Part five highlights Tanyag's undisputed status as one of the city's most inspiring chefs, with a crisp and zesty blood orange and camomile granita, followed by its culinary polar opposite: a hot soufflé, with miso caramel and fresh wasabi ice cream - one of the most remarkable flavour combinations you'll encounter this year.

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Hokushin Left Bank Chardonnay Rivalis was paired with an Australian Amberjack Kampachi Crudo (a tangy, wasabi-led dish with red shiso) Bluefin tuna tartare, with Oscietra caviar

Iwade Koshu Ortum was also paired with seafood such as crabs legs and nigiri

Fuefuki Koshu Gris de Gris 2022 (with similarities to a bold and orchard fruit-laden orange wine,) is paired with a grilled yellowtail tartare with fresh black truffle

Mercian Mariki Syrah, with hints of minerality and spice is paired with a Wagyu Sando

The Luna Omakase X Chateau Mercian Wine Pairing Menu runs until 30 September, and then from the 1st of October at sister restaurant, Juno in Kensington.