Waitress uniform designs inspired in origami detailed on a mannequin.
Club designs: Waitress uniform designs inspired by origami, Michelle Wu, ODE designer
(Image credit: TBC)

Fashion design

Ever since Sister Sledge paid a pioneering, brand-centric tribute to ‘Halston, Gucci, Fiorucci…’ on the girl group’s 1979 classic, ‘He’s The Greatest Dancer’, disco fashion has proved crucial to completing the night life experience. The Dionysian days of disco turned club-culture into a decade-spanning fashion inspiration, directly influencing designers from street level up to couture, from dance floor to catwalk.

With this highly potent, dance floor-driven energy in mind, Heineken’s Open Design Explorations project decided that it was vital to embrace the fashion world in its creative brief. In order to develop the ultimate nightclub, young fashion talent, selected by Heineken via PechaKucha's live presentation events, collaborated with design mentors to explore the ‘science of social engagement’ and consider the pioneering interpretation of the ‘social space’.

The fashion team was encouraged to work on the notion of unexpected, vibrant future concepts, collaborating in the wider production of a boundary-pushing ‘concept club’, researching and testing different fabrics for the development of clothing and footwear for the club staff, all of which will be unveiled as a live event during Milan’s Salone Del Mobile design festival, 2012.

During its global search for hot young design talent in the specialized fashion discipline, Heineken teamed up New York-based design student Michelle Wu, Red Dot award winner Patrick Kampff, plus mentors Kim Leemans and Merel Wicker of the cutting edge Amsterdam label LEW.  Here we talk to three of the Heineken collaborators…

Designer Michelle Wu

New York-based fashion designer Michelle Wu has a Fine Art background. Melding fashion with art, her focus is on menswear that is structured and tailored but also wearable and practical. ‘I’ve always firmly believed that form should follow function,’ she says. ‘Fashion sometimes has a reputation for being superficial, but I think it has the potential to be much more. I want clothing to enhance our lives both practically and aesthetically.’

Wallpaper*: Please describe your work in one sentence
Michelle Wu: I design art that you put on every day and show off to the world.

W: Who or what has been your biggest inspiration, design wise?
MW: I’ve always been fascinated with people and the idea that we spend our whole life in clothing. Design allows me to indulge and engage this curiosity. By thinking about who we are, how we live our lives, and what we need, there are endless possibilities on how we can thrive better in the space we are given. I think one person I can relate to in this way is Philippe Starck, who is constantly searching for ‘the better’ with an almost childlike enthusiasm. It reminds me that change is exciting and fashion is exciting as well.

W: What is your favourite nightclub?
MW: For a good time, it’s the Westway in NYC on a weekday. Although there is something very special about the design of the Boom Boom Room - also, maybe the fact that you can see directly into Diane Von Furstenberg’s apartment!

W: Tell us about your input into the concept club
MW: I took part in designing the garments and footwear of the club staff. It started with the researching and testing of different materials and technology. It then progressed to sketching and making the muslins. A large part of this was working with the other disciplines to make sure the staff accented and blended in with the living environment.

W: What is your ambition?
MW: Just to be happy, make beautiful things, and earn at least one high five a day.

Fashion mentors Kim Leemans and Merel Wicker, LEW

LEW is a multidisciplinary fashion studio, set up by Dutch duo Kim Leemans and Merel Wicker. Both graduates from the fashion school of the Gerrit Rietveld Academy in Amsterdam, Kim and Merel began to collaborate at college and have been partners ever since. They started their own label in 2007.

Concept and wearability is always at the core of LEW collections; eye-catching craftsmanship and print-design combined with fresh, mature colors and graphic shapes create a refreshing and powerful image. Alongside the catwalk collections, LEW takes on special commissions for clients in fashion, art and design.

Wallpaper*: What is the best nightclub you have ever been to?
LEW: We can't say we have seen the best nightclub yet but we have definitely attended some great parties. A great party is one where we had a great time, felt very special and left with a feeling of wanting more.

W: What is the most important element on the nightclub experience?
LEW: To make you feel as if you are part of a 'once in a lifetime' experience. You should feel special and comfortable and be inspired by the whole; music, surroundings, lighting, visuals, other people etc. An exciting development in nightclub design came when DJs became superstars. The whole of the nightlife experience suddenly became built around it. The art of lighting and visual spectacles became very important to amplify the DJ on stage. We believe this trend has made a big impact on how clubs are being designed.

W: What annoys you about nightclubs?
LEW: Coldness, overkill of 'fancy' design, unnecessary uncomfortable tricks and gadgets. Clubs that are so dark, you can't see what you are drinking or who you're talking to frustrate us. It smothers the atmosphere and takes over the space, so there is no more room for your own personality. Nightclubs with stiff and humourless design kill the spontaneity your night should have!

W: How has fashion influenced nightclub design?
LEW: Fashion has always influenced culture and fashion designers are constantly influenced by art, design, architecture, music, politics etc. Ultimately, fashion is inseparable from nightclubs - it is the place to showcase and enjoy fashion.

W: Where do you see nightclub design heading in the future?
LEW: We believe the nightclub of the future will keep reinventing itself to keep surprising the public. Maybe the future club will be one that travels through the city, constantly finding exciting new locations to keep it fresh. This will have a definite impact on the design of the club. We believe it will be more innovative, efficient, subtle, open, sustainable and colourful. A clever design with some humour, which offers optimal comfort and experience to the public but is still original and inspiring.

Club designs sketches of waitress uniform designs inspired by origami.

Club designs: Waitress uniform designs inspired by origami, Michelle Wu, ODE designer

(Image credit: TBC)

Clothing sample made using origami techniques.

Club designs: clothing sample made using origami techniques, Michelle Wu, ODE designer

(Image credit: TBC)

A sketch of a waitress uniform (white midi-dress).

Club designs: waitress uniforms, Patrick Kampff, ODE designer

(Image credit: TBC)

Waitress uniform outline.

Club designs: waitress uniform, Patrick Kampff, ODE designer

(Image credit: TBC)

Sketches of a waitress uniform with images showing the design elements in production.

Club designs: the uniform designs by mentoring team LEW, inspired by Michelle Wu's sketches

(Image credit: TBC)

Two renders of a dress style in various green shades. An image on the right of the dress on a mannequin.

Club designs: the uniform designs by mentoring team LEW, inspired by initial sketches from Michelle Wu and Patrick Kampff

(Image credit: TBC)

Two sketches of dress uniform designs. Both uniforms are emerald green midi dresses with low-cut tops. One covers the shoulders. One has an open neck and open shoulders.

Club designs: the uniform designs by mentoring team LEW, inspired by initial sketches from Michelle Wu

(Image credit: TBC)

Bar staff uniform. Three designs. All wearing an emerald green lower apron. All wearing white shirts with one wearing a green tie.

Club designs: bar staff uniform, Michelle Wu, ODE designer

(Image credit: TBC)

Initial sketches of the shoes to be worn by waitresses

Club designs: initial sketches of the shoes to be worn by waitresses

(Image credit: TBC)

Initial sketches of the shoes to be worn by waitresses

Club designs: initial sketches of the shoes to be worn by waitresses

(Image credit: TBC)

Pictured is several photos of the same shoe in different angles. The shoe is high ankle style with a metallic silver upper and beige back

Club designs: Red Dot award winning designs by Patrick Kampff.  30 limited edition pairs have been produced for the Heineken ODE project by Havaianas, to be worn by bartenders and club staff

(Image credit: TBC)

A collection of seven models wearing different black, white and grey outfits.

ODE Designer Michelle Wu portfolio: collection inspired by the golden ratio concept applied to plastic surgery by Dr Marquardt

(Image credit: TBC)

Five shirts hanging up next to each other. Each shirt has a mixed colour of white and grey.

ODE Designer Michelle Wu portfolio: collection inspired by the idea of modern day armour

(Image credit: TBC)

Sketches of three figures wearing varying style tops. Left: a long sleeve jumper with a waist coat. Middle: A long sleeve cardigan with black and white arms. Right: A long sleeve jumper with a black and white scarf.

ODE Designer Michelle Wu portfolio: sketch book image

(Image credit: TBC)

A sketch of a mid-ankle shoe with a white upper, a black ankle side and a clear 'W' style on the side.

ODE Designer Michelle Wu portfolio: footwear design

(Image credit: TBC)

A photograph of a female with long brunette hair posing and lying down wearing a light blue long sleeve top and light blue trousers.

Mentor LEW portfolio: LEWlight collection s/s2009

(Image credit: TBC)

A long haired brunette female posing in beige trousers and a beige and blue long sleeve top. Also wearing bright blue pointy shoes.

Mentor LEW portfolio: LEWlight collection s/s2009

(Image credit: TBC)

A female with long brunette hair jumping in the air wearing an orange midi dress and orange shoes.

Mentor LEW portfolio: LEWlight collection s/s2009

(Image credit: TBC)

A photograph of two males and one female wearing white and black tops.

Mentor LEW portfolio: lewishere2 collection

(Image credit: TBC)

Three models walking on a catwalk. Left: wearing an orange outfit with an orange blazer. Middle: An orange and white print maxi dress. Right: A blue/grey stripe jumper and white/grey trousers.

Mentor LEW portfolio: Lady Lew and Blue Boy collection s/s 2010

(Image credit: TBC)

Three females models wearing outfits. Left: A grey/white top and matching trousers. Grey shoes. Middle: A light yellow top with yellow trousers and overcoat. Yellow shoes. Right: A half/half outfit with the left half in beige and the right side in sky blue.

Mentor LEW portfolio: Lady Lew and Blue Boy collection s/s 2010

(Image credit: TBC)

Rosa Bertoli was born in Udine, Italy, and now lives in London. Since 2014, she has been the Design Editor of Wallpaper*, where she oversees design content for the print and online editions, as well as special editorial projects. Through her role at Wallpaper*, she has written extensively about all areas of design. Rosa has been speaker and moderator for various design talks and conferences including London Craft Week, Maison & Objet, The Italian Cultural Institute (London), Clippings, Zaha Hadid Design, Kartell and Frieze Art Fair. Rosa has been on judging panels for the Chart Architecture Award, the Dutch Design Awards and the DesignGuild Marks. She has written for numerous English and Italian language publications, and worked as a content and communication consultant for fashion and design brands.