‘Punk ballerina’ Karole Armitage debuts a genre-bending show in New York
Karole Armitage, the choreographer behind Madonna’s Vogue video and Marc Jacobs’ A/W 2021 show, debuts A Pandemic Notebook at New York Live Arts

Luchino Visconti films, medieval medicine, and Marc Jacobs are among the many inspirations behind choreographer Karole Armitage’s new work, A Pandemic Notebook, which premieres at New York Live Arts 16 – 19 March 2022.
The show documents Armitage’s creative explorations over the period of Covid lockdowns, but it also acts as a retrospective of sorts, by synthesising many of the artistic collaborations (with David Salle, Jeff Koons, Alba Clemente) and diverse influences (music, science, art, fashion) that underpin her kaleidoscopic résumé into one dazzling work.
Beautiful Monster. Dancers: Sierra French, Alonso Guzman.
Armitage started her career under choreographer George Balanchine before transitioning into Merce Cunningham’s dance company and eventually launching her own company in 1981. The ‘punk ballerina’ of New York quickly became a luminary of the city’s burgeoning downtown art scene, combining the rigour of classical ballet with the experimentation of modern dance for an explosive new form of choreography that pushed the boundaries of what dance could look like and what subject matters it could address.
She choreographed Madonna’s Vogue and Michael Jackson’s In The Closet videos, as well as New York Philharmonic operas. In effect, she broke away from the minimalist formalism of dancers like Cunningham and Yvonne Rainer to create a new form of modernism that was more viscerally emotional and erotic, in the same way that visual artists like Salle and Koons were diverging from the simplified abstraction of Donald Judd, Sol LeWitt and others.
A Pandemic Notebook by Karole Armitage
A Pandemic Notebook juxtaposes excerpts of dance films created by Armitage over the past two years with live renditions for the stage and marks the first time Armitage herself will be performing since 1989, this time alongside New York City Ballet legend Jock Soto. The show is divided into five parts, each drawing from a different range of influences and preoccupied with its own set of philosophical questions.
Beautiful Monster. Dancers: Sierra French, Alonso Guzman, Cristian Laverde Koenig.
The programme opens with a diptych, Beautiful Monster and Louis, inspired by Visconti’s film La Strega Bruciata Viva (The Witch Burned Alive) and Roberto Rossellini’s La prise de pouvoir par Louis XIV (The Taking of Power by Louis XIV). The films are, as Armitage describes it, ‘both about the hidden uses of power. In Visconti, it’s about how even the most glamorous movie star is subjected to other kinds of power pressures. While with Rossellini, it’s how Louis XIV put on more and more elaborate clothes and made people copy him to distract, through social envy or status consciousness, that he was taking more power.
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
‘It’s about these ruthless but subversive ways of distraction as a means to power,’ Armitage continues, and then, with her signature blend of philosophical eloquence and quick witted-charisma, summarises that ‘anyway, Trump was the inspiration’.
Killer. Dancers: Kali Oliver, Isaac Kerr.
The second part of the programme, Head to Heel and Andy, draws on ‘the most marvellous book of medieval philosophy, spirituality, medicine, that goes through medieval beliefs body part by body part, and it inspired me to make a dance that uses each body part is a generator of movements – from the head to each of the senses, genitals, hands and all that – and then incorporates this really weird thinking that was going on at the time.’
Another segment, entitled 6 Ft. Apart, draws on Armitage’s work as a director’s fellow at MIT Media Lab, where she has been exploring how to use new technology to create a poetic impact on the stage. Working in collaboration with the young Scottish engineer and designer Agnes Fury Cameron, Armitage has rigged dancers with visible wires and devices – iPhones and accelerometers, a type of on-body sensor – that trigger sound in relation to their motion.
Marc Jacobs. Dancers: Kali Oliver, Isaac Kerr, Alonso Guzman.
The final segment of A Pandemic Notebook is a continuation of Armitage’s collaboration with Marc Jacobs on his A/W 2021 collection show, which saw a riotous army of dancers and models take over the New York Armory. In this iteration, dancers in select pieces of Marc Jacobs clothing perform to the music of Native American saxophonist and composer Jim Pepper.
The production also features costumes by Koons that are made from scuba diving suits covered in small, hanging speakers that move with the dancers, and by Salle, who has draped two dancers in long, unkempt hair designed to mask their gender.
While these various segments might seem disparate, according to Armitage they all work together to convey a central message. ‘I want people to feel that the status quo must be challenged. That doing things with real depth actually has meaning. That it’s not about a superficial sort of fake copycat, sensibility. That art is meaningful when it pushes things to extremes. I want people to come away with an art experience.’
Andy. Dancers: Sierra French, Cristian Laverde Koenig. Camera Operator: Alonso Guzman.
INFORMATION
Mary Cleary is a writer based in London and New York. Previously beauty & grooming editor at Wallpaper*, she is now a contributing editor, alongside writing for various publications on all aspects of culture.
-
Bocci and Anna Carnick join forces on a showcase of evocative design practices in Berlin
'Crafting Community' is on view at Berlin's Wilhelm Hallen until 14 September 2025
-
The story behind a one-of-a-kind Dieter Rams handbag, reborn by German leather brand Tsatsas
A new exhibition at Vitsœ’s London store celebrates the ‘931’ bag, designed by Dieter Rams for his wife Ingeborg in 1963 and reborn over half a century later in a collaboration between Rams and German leather accessories brand Tsatsas
-
A Miami pied-à-terre channels Art Deco glamour and endless summer
Interior designer Olga Malyev reimagines a South of Fifth apartment with bold colour, vintage treasures and a sunlit spirit that captures Miami’s timeless allure
-
Stephen Prina borrows from pop, classical and modern music: now MoMA pays tribute to his performance work
‘Stephen Prina: A Lick and a Promise’ recalls the artist, musician, and composer’s performances, and is presented throughout MoMA. Prina tells us more
-
Out of office: the Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the week
With the return of back-to-school, it's back to business for the Wallpaper* team, who’ve been making the rounds at fashion pop-ups and pavilion launches. Elsewhere, we’ve been indulging in new literature and old restaurants, and taking in a farewell exhibition at a landmark gallery...
-
Curtains up, Kid Harpoon rethinks the sound of Broadway production ‘Art’
He’s crafted hits with Harry Styles and Miley Cyrus; now songwriter and producer Kid Harpoon (aka Tom Hull) tells us about composing the music for the new, all-star Broadway revival of Yasmina Reza’s play ‘Art’
-
Out of office: the Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the week
Here in the UK, summer seems to be fading fast. Moody skies and showers called for early-autumn rituals for the Wallpaper* team: retreating into the depths of the Tate Modern, slipping into shadowy cocktail bars, and curling up with a good book
-
‘A Single Man’ is now a ballet – we go behind the design
As ‘A Single Man’ is presented by The Royal Ballet and Factory International in London, here’s how its set designer brought protagonist George’s inner and outer worlds to life on stage
-
Richard Prince recontextualises archival advertisements in Texas
The artist unites his ‘Posters’ – based on ads for everything from cat pictures to nudes – at Hetzler, Marfa
-
Out of office: the Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the week
Another week, another flurry of events, opening and excursions showcasing the best of culture and entertainment at home and abroad. Catch our editors at Scandi festivals, iconic jazz clubs, and running the length of Manhattan…
-
The best Ruth Asawa exhibition is actually on the streets of San Francisco
The artist, now the subject of a major retrospective at SFMOMA, designed many public sculptures scattered across the Bay Area – you just have to know where to look