Scene design with dim lighting
The publicity image for the Yohji Yamamoto exhibition at the V&A. art direction by Peter Saville
(Image credit: Nick Knight)

There isn't just one, but three exhibitions on the great avant-garde Yohji Yamamoto launching in London this week. This, coupled with a fantastic biography the Japanese designer published earlier this year, hotly trailed by a brand new Y-3 flagship store on Conduit Street, makes it fairly safe to deduce that Yohji fever has well and truly taken over the city.

The retrospective is essentially split into three parts, with the V&A concentrating on Yamamoto's clothes, Wapping Project Bankside showing the photographs from Yamamoto's key collaborators, and The Wapping Project concentrating on an installation of one of the designer's major pieces.

Joining forces with scenographer, lighting designer, and long-time Yamamoto collaborator, Masao Nihei, The Wapping Project installation gives centre stage to the now legendary oversized white silk wedding dress from A/W 1998, turned on its head and suspended from the ceiling over a flooded pool in former hydraulic power station's Boiler House. Lit just above water level with a row of light bulbs, the experience - complete with ripples that disturb the water at 10 minute intervals - allows for viewers to catch the ghostly glow of the dress and reflected in the water, and, for anyone daring enough to 'brave' the waves, detailed inspection through the services of a little wooden boat and accompanying boatman.

Closer to town, photographic gallery Wapping Project Bankside has lent its large industrial space to 'Yohji's Women', a communion of image-led work dedicated to Yamamoto's love of unconventional women and his drive to create sexually androgynous clothes for them, featuring a roll call of photographers that includes Nick Knight, Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, Peter Lindbergh and Paolo Roversi, amongst others.

While heading westward, the V&A's dedicated homage to Yamamoto's work through an installation-based format, also designed by Nihei, sees over 80 garments on show - 60 of which hold court in a main exhibition space, with the rest appearing in 'satellite displays' hidden in various corners of the museum.

There is also Yamamoto's work with the people he forged strong creative partnerships with, and a mixed-media timeline charts his career through fashion shows, films, performances, graphic material and photographs. Not to be missed as well, is the first-ever UK exhibit of clothes from his menswear collection.

Yohji Yamamoto, Satellite display in the Tapestry Gallery at the V&A, 2011

Yohji Yamamoto, Satellite display in the Tapestry Gallery at the V&A, 2011

(Image credit: Courtesy: V&A Images)

Yohji Yamamoto installation view at the V&A

Yohji Yamamoto  installation view at the V&A, 2011

(Image credit: Courtesy: V&A Images)

Yohji Yamamoto Satellite display in the Norfolk House Music Room at the V&A

Yohji Yamamoto Satellite display in the Norfolk House Music Room at the V&A, 2011

(Image credit: Courtesy: V&A Images)

Yohji Yamamoto Satellite display in the Paintings Gallery at the V&A

Yohji Yamamoto Satellite display in the Paintings Gallery at the V&A, 2011

(Image credit: Courtesy: V&A Images)

Yohji Yamamoto exhibition view at the V&A

Yohji Yamamoto exhibition view at the V&A, 2011

(Image credit: Courtesy: V&A Images)

Yohji Yamamoto exhibition view at the V&A, 2011.

Yohji Yamamoto exhibition view at the V&A, 2011. The museum’s dedicated homage to Yamamoto’s work through an installation-based format, also designed by Nihei, sees over 80 garments on show...

(Image credit: Courtesy: V&A Images)

60 of which hold court in a main exhibition space, with the rest appearing in ’satellite displays’ hidden in various corners of the museum.

... ... 60 of which hold court in a main exhibition space, with the rest appearing in ’satellite displays’ hidden in various corners of the museum.

Courtesy: V&A Images

(Image credit: Courtesy: V&A Images)

Yohji Yamamoto Satellite display on the British Galleries landing at the V&A, 2011

Yohji Yamamoto Satellite display on the British Galleries landing at the V&A, 2011

(Image credit: Courtesy: V&A Images)

Dream Shop by Yohji Yamamoto

Dream Shop by Yohji Yamamoto

(Image credit: Ronald Stoops)

Dream Shop by Yohji Yamamoto

Dream Shop by Yohji Yamamoto

(Image credit: Ronald Stoops)

Yohji Yamamoto

Yohji Yamamoto

(Image credit: Koichi Inakoshi)

A shot of the ’Yohji Making Waves’ installation set-up in progress at The Wapping Project.

A shot of the ’Yohji Making Waves’ installation set-up in progress at The Wapping Project. 

(Image credit: Christian Sinibaldi)

Joining forces with scenographer, lighting designer, and long-time Yamamoto collaborator, Masao Nihei...

Joining forces with scenographer, lighting designer, and long-time Yamamoto collaborator, Masao Nihei...

(Photograph detailing the installation set-up process)

(Image credit: Christian Sinibaldi)

The Wapping Project installation gives centre stage to the now legendary oversized white silk wedding dress from A/W 1998, turned on its head and suspended from the ceiling over a flooded pool in The Wapping Project

... The Wapping Project installation gives centre stage to the now legendary oversized white silk wedding dress from A/W 1998, turned on its head and suspended from the ceiling over a flooded pool in The Wapping Project’s Boiler House.

(Photograph detailing the installation set-up process)

(Image credit: Christian Sinibaldi)

Lit just above water level with a row of light bulbs, the experience - complete with ripples that disturb the water at 10 minute intervals...

Lit just above water level with a row of light bulbs, the experience - complete with ripples that disturb the water at 10 minute intervals...

(Photograph detailing the installation set-up process)

(Image credit: Christian Sinibaldi)

... allows for viewers to catch the ghostly glow of the dress and reflected in the water

... allows for viewers to catch the ghostly glow of the dress and reflected in the water

(Image credit: Christian Sinibaldi)

For anyone daring enough to ’brave’ the waves, detailed inspection through the services of a little wooden boat and boatman.

For anyone daring enough to ’brave’ the waves, detailed inspection through the services of a little wooden boat and boatman.

(Image credit: Christian Sinibaldi)

The dress, constructed with bamboo crinoline, has a white hat, which is supported by bamboo sticks that float freely.

The dress, constructed with bamboo crinoline, has a white hat, which is supported by bamboo sticks that float freely.

(Image credit: Christian Sinibaldi)

Closer to town, photographic gallery Wapping Project Bankside has lent its large industrial space to an exhibition titled ’Yohji’s Women’.

Closer to town, photographic gallery Wapping Project Bankside has lent its large industrial space to an exhibition titled ’Yohji’s Women’.

(Image credit: press)

Installation view of ’Yohji’s Women’ at Wapping Project Bankside.

Installation view of ’Yohji’s Women’ at Wapping Project Bankside.

(Image credit: press)

The show features a communion of image-led work dedicated to Yamamoto’s love of unconventional women and his drive

The show features a communion of image-led work dedicated to Yamamoto’s love of unconventional women and his drive to create sexually androgynous clothes for them...

(Image credit: press)

featuring a roll call of photographers that includes Nick Knight, Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, Peter Lindbergh and Paolo Roversi, amongst others.

... featuring a roll call of photographers that includes Nick Knight, Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, Peter Lindbergh and Paolo Roversi, amongst others.

(Image credit: press)

A display with photographs by Max Vadukul from the Yohji Yamamoto Catalogue

A display with from the Yohji Yamamoto Catalogue, 1984.

(Image credit: Max Vadukul)

Installation view of a photograph by Nick Knight...

Installation view of a

(Image credit: Nick Knight)

taken from the Yohji Yamamoto Catalogue

... taken from the Yohji Yamamoto Catalogue, 1987.

(Image credit: press)

ver on Conduit Street, the first Y-3 flagship store sits across the road from the Yohji Yamamoto boutique.

Over on Conduit Street, the first Y-3 flagship store sits across the road from the Yohji Yamamoto boutique.

(Image credit: press)

Spread over 200 sq m, the two-floor space features clean lines and industrial materials to reflect a modern aesthetic

Spread over 200 sq m, the two-floor space features clean lines and industrial materials to reflect a modern aesthetic.

(Image credit: press)

The London store marks the 10 year Y-3 partnership between Yohji Yamamoto and adidas.

The London store marks the 10 year Y-3 partnership between Yohji Yamamoto and adidas.

(Image credit: press)

In store at the moment is the current S/S 2011 collection.

In store at the moment is the current S/S 2011 collection.

(Image credit: press)

Y-3 Conduit Street will also stock the full range including menswear, womenswear, footwear, accessories and childrenswear.

Y-3 Conduit Street will also stock the full range including menswear, womenswear, footwear, accessories and childrenswear.

(Image credit: press)

Yohji Yamamoto Autumn Winter collection circa 1983-84

Yohji Yamamoto Autumn Winter collection circa 1983-84

(Image credit: Courtesy: V&A)

Yohji Yamamoto A/W 2007-08

Yohji Yamamoto A/W 2007-08

Courtesy: V&A

(Image credit: Monica Feudi)

Yohji Yamamoto A/W 2008-09

Yohji Yamamoto A/W 2008-09

Courtesy: V&A

(Image credit: Monica Feudi)

Yohji Yamamoto A/W 2008-09

Yohji Yamamoto A/W 2008-09

Courtesy: V&A

(Image credit: Monica Feudi)

Yohji Yamamoto A/W 2009-10

Yohji Yamamoto A/W 2009-10

Courtesy: V&A

(Image credit: Monica Feudi)

Yohji Yamamoto A/W 2009-10

Yohji Yamamoto A/W 2009-10

Courtesy: V&A

(Image credit: Monica Feudi)

ADDRESS

Y-3 store
54 Conduit Street
London W1S 2YY

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