Mood board: On his first voyage as the solo creative director at Valentino, Pierpaolo Piccioli's show notes stated that 'a new beginning demands a certain forgetfulness.' And though his memory did stall ever slightly from the sugary softness that had characterized his work with Maria Grazia Chiuri, Valentino's style DNA of womanly femininity was still very much at the core of the collection. Valentino's famed demure dresses were still here, but many had been loosened to give a draped, tunic-like effect and the workmanship was still dizzying on delicately embroidered tulle dresses.

Best in show: The show opened with a whoppingly beautiful pink and black pleated cocktail dress with velvet appliqués. That sense of graphic goodness popped up again here and there in the collection, especially on a wonderful embroidered trench coat, but the very strongest look came as another book-end in the show, as the very last model showed off a prim, but ultra-modern full-length color-blocked gown.

Finishing touches: Flat Grecian sandals wrapped up with pretty ribbons were worn with near every look - even with mid-winter mink coats and fancy dresses.  When the heel went up, it was done without the pain of a stilletto; it was just softly lifted as a a whole base on a flat form elegant sandal.