Mood board: Elie Saab skipped into spring with a much lighter approach than his usual red-carpet refinery. The news this season centered around sporty stripes and feminine laces, which the designer plunged in a convincing way.

Best in show: Thought the paper thin leathers perforated to resemble lace showed off Saab’s technical prowess, the best looks tried less hard and spoke louder with their effect. A very cool green-piped white sweat suit looked great with an embroidered floral blouse, while flowing lace pants and matching tops went the easy route with flat sandals.

Finishing touches: Saab’s key shoe next season is a block heeled sandal that laces up the leg or the ankle with gladiator-like lashings, while he also introduced his new handbag line Le 31 – in sharp square lines.