Mood board: Kenzo was founded in Paris in 1964 by a visiting Japanese Francophile named Kenzo Takada. To this day, the label’s peppy American creative directors – retail gurus-turned-designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon – used their time spent at music concerts in Japan and beyond as a starting point for their most recent collection. Youthful, easy separates that are an ode to the fans of idols past and present, the roomy sweatshirts emblazoned with Takada’s signature will be sure to please the label’s 1.1 million Instagram followers.

Scene setting: 100 or so choristers from the Palais Royal and Sanfoka Unit choirs opened the show, walking out onto the runway chanting lyrics from Janet Jackson's Rhythm Nation. They stood in two rows in the centre of the show space performing an exclusive cover of the song reworked by American producer Daniel Lopatin and arranged by Thomas Roussel. 

Best in show: The print offering for next season is vast; nagai stars, tanaka squares and graphic daisy chains were on everything from shirts to suits. Also standout were the lacquered quilted trench coats, which were cinched with wide obi belts.