Steel has long been the favoured material for making practical watches. Strong, light, economical, hypo-allergenic and non-magnetic, it was perfect for pilots, engineers and the military, but not a luxury material, not something to create dreams from. That is, until the 1970s, when watch designer and goldsmith Gérald Genta had a different vision. His early 1970s modernist steel watch designs, including the ‘Royal Oak’ for Audemars Piguet and the ‘Nautilus’ for Patek Philippe, integrated case and bracelet in a single fluid loop. His use of handbrushed and polished metalwork, typical jeweller techniques, creating new kinds of luxury sports watches.
‘Nautilus’ ladies’ automatic watch in steel and diamonds, by Patek Philippe. Fashion: Aylin Bayhan
It wasn’t long before women’s watches were just as vigorously proportioned – the new Patek Philippe ladies’ automatic ‘Nautilus’, which eschews the smaller delicacy of earlier models with its most generous dimensions yet, is a case in point. A dark grey opaline dial, when framed by a diamond bezel, becomes almost dainty. The grey steel hue of Bulgari’s ‘Octo Roma’ is made richer with rose-gold accents. Chopard’s ‘Alpine Eagle’, meanwhile, although crafted with heavy steel links, boasts a sleek, narrow silhouette, bestowing steel with the elegantly precious credentials it so richly deserves.
‘Octo Roma’ watch in stainless steel and rose gold, by Bulgari. Fashion: Aylin Bayhan
As originally featured in the May 2020 issue of Wallpaper* (W*254), available to download free here
INFORMATION
-
Hassan Hajjaj's vibrant portraits put Moroccan women at the centre of the storyFor more than three decades, the visual artist has been making portraits that centre Moroccan culture, albeit through a subversive lens. Now, an exhibition in Toronto explores the sporty facet of his portraits
-
A new exhibition interrogates the spectacle of the runway show: ‘Fashion shows are image machines’The first show at Basel’s Vitra Design Museum dedicated to fashion, ‘Catwalk: The Art of the Fashion Show’ guides us from the silent Paris salon to the raucous digital spectacle of the present day
-
Projection made simple courtesy of Vibe One, the first offering from XGIMI’s new sub-brandVibe by XGIMI wants to bring projection to the masses, with a debut product that simplifies and streamlines the art of conjuring up cinema wherever you happen to be
-
Meet the young watchmakers stirring up the industryLoupes at the ready, these artisans are ones to 'watch'
-
Take a look at the big winners of the watch world OscarsThe Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève is the Oscars for the watch world – get all the news on the 2024 event here
-
Why are watch designers so drawn to brutalism?Watch brands looking for ways to break the conservative mould look to brutalist architecture and 1970s design codes
-
Classic watch designs to last a lifetimeWhen considering which watch design to invest in, disregard trends and consider classic pieces characterised by timeless design
-
Browns and Mad Paris rethink Audemars Piguet Royal OakWatch customisation specialist Mad Paris has developed two new versions of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak for Browns
-
Time for an eco-friendly watch?Some of the more eco-friendly watch materials being embraced by sustainably-minded watchmakers include recycled steel, bioceramic and cork
-
Boundary-breaking Chanel watch is tweaked for a new generationThe Boy.Friend Skeleton appeals to both men and women with its distinctive octagonal silhouette
-
On the button: Chanel's perfectly hidden timepieceThe ‘Mademoiselle Privé Bouton’ watch is everything but off the cuff
