It was the glinting light that compelled Silvia Furmanovich to peruse a dark box of fabrics in a New York antiques store. Closer inspection revealed a pile of intricate material samples. The São Paulo-based jeweller had happened upon a collection of Nishijin woven silks which had belonged to a late Kyoto family clothing business serving aristocratic women in the Kansai region in the late 19th and early 20th centuries – the Meiji era.
‘I was mesmerised by the wealth of nature motifs and symbols, such as cranes, clouds, sparrows, waves, bamboo shoots, maple leaves, chrysanthemums, peonies and dianthus flowers that decorated the fabrics,’ Furmanovich says of the inspiration for the Obi collection. ‘I thought they could be intricately interpreted using our marquetry and miniature painting techniques.’
The discovery also presented a swatch book with 141 fragments of obi belt fabrics. “Each piece was a little universe unto itself, complete with its own symbolism,’ Furmanovich tells us. It was a serendipitous find because it so perfectly reflects the Brazilian jeweller’s distinct fine jewellery style. ‘I work with marquetry craftsmen in the Amazon rainforest and miniature paintings specialists in Udaipur, India. The Japanese design sensibility is out of this world and when I saw these fabrics, I knew that they could be interpreted using these specialist crafts – the intricacies and patterns created a natural dialogue with them.’
The result is a collection of multi-layered, textured depictions of the fabrics, created using wood overlays for the marquetry, and paints derived from minerals and gemstones for the miniatures. ‘I am a firm believer in the power of craftsmanship, and I am dedicated to what I believe in,’ says Furmanovich, going some way to explain the almost spiritual quality of these magical pieces.
Antique Lacqyer Plaque' earrings in gold, lacquered wood, white South Sea pearls and diamonds, $15,688, by Silvia Furmanovich, from Bergdorf Goodman
ADDRESS
754 5th Ave,
New York, NY 10019,
-
The owner of this restored Spanish Colonial home turned it into a gallery – with no social media allowedCasa Francis in LA is a private residence, but recently opened its doors to one member of the public at a time for an exhibition centred around domesticity
-
The best of Pitti Uomo 108, from guest stars to gelatoWallpaper* picks the best of the twice-yearly menswear fair, which took place in Florence this week and featured guest shows from Homme Plissé Issey Miyake and rising Italian star Niccolò Pasqualetti, as well as a Tommy Hilfiger social club and Margaret Howell gelato
-
A new Québec house blends open-plan living with far-reaching viewsThe Mountainside Residence is anchored into its sloping site by a concrete plinth, above which sits a main living space with tall ceilings and walls of glass
-
All eyes on Greek jewellery brand Lito as it launches bold new amulets to mark its 25 yearsStriking amulets, seductive stones and secret messages characterise Lito's striking new anniversary collection, an extension of its ‘Tu es Partout’ series
-
The best layering necklaces for an elevated yet casual lookHow to mix, match and stack jewellery for the ultimate high-energy, low-effort style
-
Art takes London: Tiffany & Co, Damien Hirst and artists take over Selfridges' windowsFour British contemporary artists celebrate Tiffany & Co's pioneering history with a series of storied window displays
-
Late summer jewels: what to wear at Golden HourLate summer signals a jewellery style-shift. These independent designers have got it covered
-
All smiles: How a grillz jewellery making class in London became an international hitWhat started as a passion project quickly exploded in popularity. We get the story behind the grillz-making workshop at Cockpit London
-
Emerging jewellery designers to get to knowThese independent, new and emerging jewellery designers and brands from New York to Paris are firmly on our radar
-
Jewellery designers share their most precious personal piecesA host of jewellers give us a peek at the jewellery which brings them joy and solace
-
Playing it cool: pearls are having a momentWe've been deep-diving into boutiques around the world to find the very best calcium carbonate in minute crystalline form. It seems jewellers have been busy rethinking pearls, with contemporary (and often affordable) results
