Renaissance man: designers are seeing pearls in a whole new light

’Silver Lip’ 18-ct gold earring with silver Akoya pearl
’Silver Lip’ 18-ct gold earring with silver Akoya pearl, by Hum; ’Pearl Tushroom’ necklace in Siam yellow gold with Akoya pearls (also pictured left), by Patcharavipa; jacket and top both by Dior. Fashion: Jason Hughes
(Image credit: James Robjant)

In recent saesons, menswear designers have favoured single earrings as their accessory of choice. At Alexander McQueen, Sarah Burton opts for an ornate pearl-drop style, cupped in a leafy crystal pavé shell. It harks back to the metrosexual preferences of the Elizabethan era and Sir Walter Raleigh's favoured orb-like pearl, often seen dangling from his left ear in portraits.

Worn with a natural air of insouciance, pearls are a singular choice: Jimi Hendrix was prone to wearing long, beachy strings of them, while messy-haired model Henry Kitcher's signature pearl-drop earring is instantly recognisable during his catwalk turns for the likes of Berluti and Vivienne Westwood.

For a punkish look, we've paired Delfina Delettrez's freshwater droplet 'Seal' earring with a Tiffany stud on the helix. For a subtle take, opt for the sheeny hues of black or grey pearls, as in Dina Kamal's signet ring or HUM's drop earrings. Swap a simple chain for a string of pearls and strip back your styling with sleek monochrome tailoring. It's the contemporary take - raw and rebellious with a Renaissance touch. 

As originally featured in the May 2018 issue of Precious Index

'Black Lip' 18-ct gold earring with black Akoya pearl, by Hum

'Black Lip' 18-ct gold earring with black Akoya pearl, by Hum from Dover Street Market London; 'Rainbow Mala Drop' 18-ct grey gold necklace with amethysts, sapphires, tsavorite and Tahitian pearls (also pictured right), by Noor Fares; jacket and top both by Alexander McQueen

(Image credit: Photography: James Robjant)

18-ct white gold earring with black diamond and black Tahitian pearl

18-ct white gold earring with black diamond and black Tahitian pearl (also pictured left), by Ara Vartanian; textured 18-ct gold ring with South Sea silver grey pearl, by Dina Kamal DK01; jacket and corsage both by Ann Demeulemeester

(Image credit: Photography: James Robjant)

’Signature’ pearl earring in 18-ct gold with Akoya cultured pearls

'Signature' pearl earring in 18-ct gold with Akoya cultured pearls, by Tiffany & Co; gold earring with diamond coronet and white diamond briolette, by Maria Tash; 'Seal' 18-ct gold earring with freshwater pearl (also pictured right), by Delfina Delettrez; coat and pocket square both by Dunhill

(Image credit: Photography: James Robjant)