Jenny Sweetnam’s fine jewellery hides diamonds in fluid gold forms

Necklaces, earrings and rings secrete diamonds into their design in Jenny Sweetnam’s new collection

woman wearing jewellery
(Image credit: Johanna Nyholm)

Modernity and minimalism unite in Jenny Sweetnam fine jewellery, which marries a preoccupation with clean forms and graphic silhouettes to create modern jewellery pieces. Jewellery is characterised by offbeat placements and unexpected tweaks: diamonds punctuate the end of a loop of gold around the finger, while necklaces slot open, offering secret spaces for trinkets.

gold and diamond ring by Jenny Sweetnam fine jewellery

(Image credit: Johanna Nyholm)

‘I’ve always experimented with creating graphic linear forms in my work, which appear on the one hand minimal but reveal unexpected twists such as a play on scale or articulation, or most recently with opening up,’ says Sweetnam. ‘In my recent work, I’ve been exploring the idea of value in fine jewellery, through pieces that invert in some way, opening up to reveal diamonds hidden inside. The idea is that the diamonds are for the wearer to know about, rather than for displaying to the world – that’s where their value comes from.’

The pieces build on the alternative engagement rings Sweetnam has previously created, where diamonds are subtle embellishments rather than the focus of the design. ‘Now I’ve created the “Enshrine” necklace, which opens up to reveal not a diamond but empty space, for the wearer to enshrine a sentimental object – an object that could perhaps be as precious as a diamond to the wearer. I wanted to explore the idea of creating a very personal jewel, something with a deep connection to the wearer that takes on a magical quality, like a modern amulet,’ Sweetnam adds.

In these minimalist pieces, diamonds become part of the form itself, adding a punkish edge to fluid silhouettes. ‘In the “Silent Diamond” earring and ring series, diamonds punctuate their graphic linear forms. They are tucked away, only occasionally glimpsed when the jewellery silhouette moves. I am thrilled by the idea that it is the feeling of wearing such a valuable element, rather than the show of it, that empowers the wearer.’

woman wearing earring by Jenny Sweetnam fine jewellery

(Image credit: Johanna Nyholm)

gold earring with hidden diamond by Jenny Sweetnam fine jewellery

(Image credit: Johanna Nyholm)

gold necklaces

(Image credit: Johanna Nyholm)


Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, and written extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys meeting artists and designers, viewing exhibitions and conducting interviews on her frequent travels.