Jenny Sweetnam’s fine jewellery hides diamonds in fluid gold forms
Necklaces, earrings and rings secrete diamonds into their design in Jenny Sweetnam’s new collection
![woman wearing jewellery](https://cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/PrECmuS7mJhvz7GmpXDnKL-415-80.jpg)
Modernity and minimalism unite in Jenny Sweetnam fine jewellery, which marries a preoccupation with clean forms and graphic silhouettes to create modern jewellery pieces. Jewellery is characterised by offbeat placements and unexpected tweaks: diamonds punctuate the end of a loop of gold around the finger, while necklaces slot open, offering secret spaces for trinkets.
‘I’ve always experimented with creating graphic linear forms in my work, which appear on the one hand minimal but reveal unexpected twists such as a play on scale or articulation, or most recently with opening up,’ says Sweetnam. ‘In my recent work, I’ve been exploring the idea of value in fine jewellery, through pieces that invert in some way, opening up to reveal diamonds hidden inside. The idea is that the diamonds are for the wearer to know about, rather than for displaying to the world – that’s where their value comes from.’
The pieces build on the alternative engagement rings Sweetnam has previously created, where diamonds are subtle embellishments rather than the focus of the design. ‘Now I’ve created the “Enshrine” necklace, which opens up to reveal not a diamond but empty space, for the wearer to enshrine a sentimental object – an object that could perhaps be as precious as a diamond to the wearer. I wanted to explore the idea of creating a very personal jewel, something with a deep connection to the wearer that takes on a magical quality, like a modern amulet,’ Sweetnam adds.
In these minimalist pieces, diamonds become part of the form itself, adding a punkish edge to fluid silhouettes. ‘In the “Silent Diamond” earring and ring series, diamonds punctuate their graphic linear forms. They are tucked away, only occasionally glimpsed when the jewellery silhouette moves. I am thrilled by the idea that it is the feeling of wearing such a valuable element, rather than the show of it, that empowers the wearer.’
INFORMATION
Wallpaper* Newsletter + Free Download
For a free digital copy of August Wallpaper*, celebrating Creative America, sign up today to receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories
Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, and written extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys meeting artists and designers, viewing exhibitions and conducting interviews on her frequent travels.
-
‘Hedonistic and avant-garde’: Rabanne’s Julian Dossena on the legacy of the chainmail 1969 bag
Paco Rabanne’s 1969 chainmail handbag encapsulates the late designer’s futuristic, space-age style. Current creative director Julien Dossena tells Wallpaper* about the bag’s particular pleasures
By Jack Moss Published
-
Postcard from Paris: Olympic fever takes over the streets
On the eve of the opening ceremony of Paris 2024, our correspondent shares her views from the streets of the capital about how the event is impacting the urban landscape.
By Minako Norimatsu Published
-
The Mercury Prize nominees for 2024 have been revealed
Charli XCX, The Last Dinner Party and Beth Gibbons are amongst this year's nominees
By Charlotte Gunn Published