Isabel Bonner translates a preoccupation with form into statement jewellery in a stylish subversion of traditionally feminine silhouettes. In her new collection, the jewellery designer is inspired by the winding coastlines of southern Italy, playing with her signature half circle for a new range of chunky chains in sterling silver.
‘I wanted to create a version of a link bracelet that was quintessentially Isabel Bonner Studio, and not like anything else I had seen recently,’ Bonner says. ‘I created the link with the components of our signature earring backs, so the shape and language is the same. I wanted the bracelets to feel masculine as well as timeless: there's certainly a 1980s influence. I loved this rolling, repetitive element that the link created, echoing scenes from coastlines and mountainsides.’
The ‘Amalfi’ bracelets are a first for Bonner, who imbues them with a reassuring weight. The pieces come in classic gold or silver finishes, which join enamel versions in a vibrant pop of colour. ‘The most difficult part was figuring out how to make the clasp totally hidden but still support the chunky weight of the bracelet,’ she adds of the technical complexity behind the design. ‘I wanted the bracelet to have a seamless, continuous feeling, ultimately very elegant without any prefabricated parts. We made the decision to use white gold for the clasp component, since it is harder than silver, so that it would be more secure.’
Mini versions of Bonner’s bestsellers join the bracelets in the new capsule collection, with all pieces taking strong geometrical outlines as their starting point for bold jewellery designed to be worn every day. How would Bonner define her young brand? ‘It feels like something that is always evolving, but for now it’s certainly architectural, classic, and modernist,’ she says.
Hannah Silver joined Wallpaper* in 2019 to work on watches and jewellery. Now, as well as her role as watches and jewellery editor, she writes widely across all areas including on art, architecture, fashion and design. As well as offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, Hannah is interested in the quirks of what makes for a digital success story.
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