Roman architect and product designer Maria Clelia Scuteri brings an edge to clean geometrical shapes in the first jewellery collection from her new brand, Invaerso. The jewellery pieces nod to the traditional filigree method, but their intricate forms are created using 3D-printing.
‘The traditional process of silver filigree is a very delicate and complex manufacturing technique that unfortunately is disappearing,’ says Scuteri. The careful process, which involves folding and manipulating slender silver wire as if it were embroidery, results in unique forms each time.
Invaerso: 3D-printing jewellery
‘These precious characteristics have inspired the collection to be innovative and contemporary without sacrificing the quality and tradition of a process that now belongs to the past,’ the jewellery designer adds. ‘I wanted to pass on to the future generations a small treasure chest of incredible value in a modern way. The collection investigates the added value brought by technology and the most advanced processing techniques getting inspired by the wisdom of what tradition leaves us.’
The designs play on the traditional ways we wear jewellery, bisecting the finger in an angular riff on a ring or sharply framing the lobe of an ear. Creating their strong silhouettes using modern technologies was not without its challenges.
‘Different manufacturing techniques such as 3D-printing, parameterisation, handcrafting and upcycling, means facing different metrics and different variables that you can't always control,’ Scuteri says. ‘How to combine the two-dimensionality of the filigree surface with the three-dimensionality of the jewel? How to deal with the construction restrictions of the 3D-printing and let it dialogue with the craftsmanship of an ancient process? How to coherently and elegantly integrate upcycling of industrial spacers in these processes? It has been a fascinating journey, but very complex; and I am extremely glad that the final result came out as it is.’
Hannah Silver joined Wallpaper* in 2019 to work on watches and jewellery. Now, as well as her role as watches and jewellery editor, she writes widely across all areas including on art, architecture, fashion and design. As well as offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, Hannah is interested in the quirks of what makes for a digital success story.
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