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Gold jewellery becomes sensual in the hands of jeweller Liv Luttrell: ‘The way my designs fit on the body has always been at the core of my work; a piece that fits or hangs well needs to marry with the natural contours of the human form,’ she says of her sculptural designs that coil around the body in unexpected yet natural ways.
‘I have always enjoyed the sensuality of shaping metal; there is a real feeling of adventure when faced with a flat piece of metal. I sculpt sometimes subtle, sometimes bold moves to create drama and volume. Simplifying a design idea to its most potent parts is an important element of my process. There is a point where the design has been stripped of any fuss but still retains the detail giving it vibrance and personality.’
Lutrell’s new pieces, the yellow-gold ‘Curved Forms’ ring and ‘Paravent’ ear pendants, stay faithful to this sensual aesthetic. The shapes are a rethink of the pieces in last year’s collection, Editions, now drawn in sheets of yellow gold. The ring juxtaposes two curved shapes, the lower with a textured Florentine finish and the higher with a delicate hammered finish, in an elegant contrast that’s echoed by the earrings.
The texture of the gold finish adds a teasing edge to the classical forms of the pieces. ‘Texture creates another language when designing: the way light reflects shine or shimmers can completely change the feeling of a piece,’ says Luttrell. ‘I love exploring these different finishes – from a bold, hammered piece I am designing at present to the gentle softness of the Florentine finish. I discovered this ancient art on my design travels and fell in love with the light it creates. It takes great skill to hand-engrave the multiple intersecting parallel lines that give the gold its beautiful shimmer. For me, it's a perfect partnership of traditional art and contemporary design.’
The thoughtful jewellery design is centred around wearability and comfort. Luttrell creates jewellery that is beautiful to look at and effortless to wear. ‘The design process is a very personal one; the sensuality of the aesthetic must translate into the same feeling for the wearer,’ she says.
Hannah Silver joined Wallpaper* in 2019 to work on watches and jewellery. Now, as well as her role as watches and jewellery editor, she writes widely across all areas including on art, architecture, fashion and design. As well as offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, Hannah is interested in the quirks of what makes for a digital success story.
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