The Tacofino Commissary restaurant review - Vancouver, Canada

It might seem odd that one of Vancouver's most acclaimed kitchens is in a bright orange truck with an image of the Virgen de Guadalupe poised to bite down on a taco. But for some years now Tacofino has been dishing out what locals insist are the best Baja-inspired tacos in British Columbia. And now owners Ryan Spong, Kaeli Robinsong and Jason Sussman have set up a bricks-and-mortar space in the up-and-coming neighbourhood of Hastings-Sunrise in East Vancouver. They had designer Omer Arbel strip a former Malaysian restaurant back to the studs and anchor the space with handsome communal tables and benches made from rescued timber and steel tubes. They're lit by an aerie of glass bulbs that double as pots for succulents and cacti. Already Tacofino fans are crowding the small space to partake in the menu of bocadillos; shared platters of tamales stuffed with prawns, crispy masa, lardons and egg; and tacos filled with tempura-battered lingcod and chipotle mayo.