Making scents: Prada bucks convention with a collection of surreal fragrances

In the fickle and constantly turning world of designer fragrances, it’s considered an incredible feat that Prada has yet to put a foot wrong. Now, to rival the exclusive scent collections touted by Chanel, Dior and Tom Ford, the innovative fashion label’s latest sensation – a 10-strong collection of conceptual scents known together as 'Prada Olfactories' – sets a new benchmark in fashion-oriented perfume.
Created by Daniela Andrier, the same force behind Prada’s other enigmatic scents including 'Infusion d’Iris' and 'Prada Candy', Prada Olfactories is a comprehensive distillation of the brand’s thought-provoking attitude and fearless approach. In each perfume’s creation, Andrier eschewed the usual methods and explanations of its composition, such as divulging top notes, the heart and the base. Instead, each scent is pieced together in a pastiche, very much like a dream. More obvious facets are undercut by elusive ones that invite the wearer to draw their own conclusions of what each scent is about.
Accompanied by surrealist collages that visualise the scent’s contents, each of the unisex fragrances is playfully named to add to its mystique. 'Cargo de Nuit', an aquatic scent that evokes a sea voyage under twilight with hints of ambrette and cedar, is light and delicate, while 'Tainted Love' is unabashed in its glossy femininity as it emulates the nostalgic, universal scent of lipstick.
Each perfume offers up a sensorial journey that’s made all the better by its restrained, elegant packaging. Enclosed in a glass flaçon and decorated with the house’s signature blue leather plaque, there’s no telling what adventure each bottle holds save for a faint hue.
To top it all off, each perfume is paired with a signature print from the Prada archive, which also appears on a silk pouch that comes with each bottle. The collection not only invites us in to experience the olfactory world of Prada, but its very visual one as well.
The collection is accompanied by a series of surrealist collages that allude to each of the scent’s notes.
A holographic card reveals the collage for the 'Purple Rain' scent. Each of the ten fragrances is playfully named to add to its mystique.
Pictured: each perfume is paired with a signature print from the Prada archive, which also appears on a silk pouch that comes with each bottle. Right: 'Purple Rain' was imagined as a modern iris fragrance
The gently-hued perfumes are housed in glass flaçons and topped with midnight blue caps, bearing the cross-hatched texture of saffiano leather
Pictured left: the illustration for 'Un Chant Damour', which has notes of crisp cotton, with neroli and musk. Right: 'Day For Night' is a fiery amber scent
Pictured left: 'Cargo de Nuit', an aquatic scent that evokes a sea voyage under twilight with hints of ambrette and cedar. Right: 'Double Dare' contains leather and suede
INFORMATION
Prada Olfactories is available from select Prada boutiques, $300 each for 100 ml. For more information, visit Prada’s website
Pei-Ru Keh is the US Editor at Wallpaper*. Born and raised in Singapore, she has been a New Yorker since 2013. Pei-Ru has held various titles at Wallpaper* since she joined in 2007. She currently reports on design, art, architecture, fashion, beauty and lifestyle happenings in the United States, both in print and digitally. Pei-Ru has taken a key role in championing diversity and representation within Wallpaper's content pillars and actively seeks out stories that reflect a wide range of perspectives. She lives in Brooklyn with her husband and two children, and is currently learning how to drive.
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