Power dressing: Christian Dior traces 70 years of design in new tome

When Christian Dior launched his couture house in 1947’s post-war Paris, he broke away from the rationing that also applied to fabrics at the time: his wasp-waisted dresses flared out with abundance.
Dior’s New Look – a term coined by Carmel Snow – revolutionised women’s fashion by injecting it with a healthy dose of optimism and sensuality. This is where Dior by Christian Dior commences, the first volume of a seven-part series published by Assouline, in which the French fashion house celebrates 70 years of its revolutionary legacy. Each volume is dedicated to a creative director, from M Dior to Yves Saint Laurent, John Galliano to Raf Simons – without forgetting the designer currently at the helm: Maria Grazia Chiuri.
Elegantly laid-out with single images on each page, the book series is curated by Olivier Saillard, the director of Paris’ Palais Galliera museum, one of the most knowledgeable and respected fashion historians working today.
The cover of Dior's new book, which charts 70 years of design at the French fashion house
The book’s historical black-and-white images interact dynamically with the theatrical chiaroscuro set-ups of Christian Dior ensembles on mannequins, shot by Laziz Hamani. It also visually synthesises the codes that combine to create Dior’s recognisable DNA. Inside, Hamani’s crystal-clear close-ups of haute couture fabrics include the tulle petals of a floral-inspired evening gown embroidered with blue sequins, and fabric representations of the house’s signature symbols, such as a lily of the valley detail on a 1955 afternoon silhouette.
The volume is interspersed with quotations from M Dior, and completed with precise information on materials, previous owners and the current institutions where the pieces are being conserved. It offers a stately idea of the foundations laid by M Christian Dior from his revolutionary New Look silhouette, until his final A/W 1957 Fuseau collection, which have given a creative foothold to the six other designers following in his footsteps.
Junon evening gown, haute couture, A/W 1949; and Première Soirée ball gown haute couture, A/W 1955
Trompette day dress, haute couture, S/S 1950; and Topaze formal afternoon dress, A/W 1951
INFORMATION
Dior by Christian Dior, $195, published by Assouline. For more information, visit the Dior website and the Assouline website
-
Last chance to see: Sharjah Biennial 15, ‘Thinking Historically in the Present’
Built on the vision of late curator Okwui Enwezor, the Sharjah Biennial 15: ‘Thinking Historically in the Present’ offers a critical reframing of postcolonial narratives through major new commissions
By Amah-Rose Abrams • Published
-
For London Gallery Weekend 2023, the mood is hardcore
With London Gallery Weekend 2023 almost upon us (2 – 4 June), here’s our list of must-see art exhibitions
By Harriet Lloyd-Smith • Published
-
Birkenstock celebrates its most memorable styles with colourful capsule (and matching socks)
Birkenstock marks the 40th, 50th and 60th anniversaries of the Gizeh, Arizona and Madrid sandals, respectively, with limited-edition versions
By Jack Moss • Published
-
The finest fashion books for style enthusiasts
The fashion books taking pride of place on the Wallpaper* style desk. From monographs and photographic tomes to limited-edition titles, we explore the latest releases
By Jack Moss • Last updated
-
Dior by Birkenstock looks to Christian Dior’s love of gardens
Christian Dior’s lifelong love of horticulture provides the inspiration for Dior’s flower-filled collaboration with Birkenstock
By Jack Moss • Published
-
These innovative Dior shoes bridge past, present and future
Inspired by an ornate Dior pump from 1962, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s just-released ‘62-22’ shoes give the classic design a futuristic update. Watch how they are made in this special short film
By Jack Moss • Last updated
-
Fendi and Kim Jones pay tribute to Bloomsbury Set in new book
The Fendi Set: From Bloomsbury to Borghese, published by Rizzoli and featuring ethereal imagery by photographer Nikolai von Bismarck, celebrates the dual history of the Roman fashion house and the mid-20th century British intellectual group
By Laura Hawkins • Last updated
-
Louis Vuitton celebrates its ateliers and artisans in chic new tome
Louis Vuitton Manufactures, published by Assouline, explores the French maison’s craftsmanship through specially commissioned photography
By Hannah Silver • Last updated
-
Twelve artists reinterpret iconic ‘Lady Dior’ bag
For Dior Lady Art #6, 12 international artists, from Tokyo to Shanghai, Dubai to Dublin, reintepret the Parisian maison’s famed ‘Lady Dior’ bag
By Laura Hawkins • Last updated
-
Tedy Eiley, the Paris-based brand inspired by mundane domesticity
Our Next Generation 2022 showcase shines a light on 22 outstanding graduates from around the globe, in seven creative fields. Here, we profile fashion graduate Brian Tusin, from Institut Français de la Mode, Paris
By Laura Hawkins • Last updated
-
Handbag brands: how to invest in a classic this autumn
Handbag designers propose streamlined shapes which are proportioned to perfection
By Laura Hawkins • Last updated