Dissecting fashion history: ’Anatomy of a Collection’ at Musée Galliera

According to the French curator Olivier Saillard the history of contemporary fashion began in the 18th century, an idea that rings true in the context of his latest curatorial triumph at the Musée Galliera in Paris.
The new exhibition 'Anatomy of a Collection' takes over the hallowed halls of the 19th century palace, and proposes close to one hundred historical and contemporary garments from the museum’s own archives each chosen for it’s intrinsic human connection. Sound abstract? In fact, the concept is grounded in the resolute fact that these clothes were inextricably linked with a living person (famous or otherwise), with both garment and wearer affecting each other and contributing to a wider cultural dialogue of dress.
From ornate imperial court dress to mid-century haute couture and recent runway pieces, the exhibition delves deep into both the provenance and mythology of clothes – considering them as relics linked with public and personal memories, celebrating their place on the stage, within ceremony, and for everyday life.
Wandering through the rouge-tinted salons amongst the black-framed vitrines, one may chance upon the blue velvet frock coat of a four-year old Napoleon or the spectacular peacock feathered muff of his niece Princess Mathilde, before discovering the rough, colourful linen uniforms of peasants from the 1900s.
Around the corner, an anteroom is resplendent with Paul Poiret designs from the wardrobes of Sarah Bernhardt and creations for the French cabaret star Mistinguett (her knit cat-suits had toes), and yet another room displays the prized pieces of modern fashion muses like Carla Sozzani (to her friend Azzedine Alaia) and Michèle Lamy (to her husband Rick Owens).
'The point of this exhibition is to reveal the intimate relationship between a garment and the person who wore it,' Saillard explains. 'Whether it is illustrious, notorious, celebrated or anonymous, the body modifies each chosen garment – it adds soul and sensitivity to a composition of textiles. It is this autobiographical reading that we wanted to touch upon in this exhibition. From Marie Antoinette to Sarah Bernhardt, the Duchess of Windsor and Tilda Swinton, the clothes in this show illustrate a portrait of those who have worn them.'
According to French curator Olivier Saillard, the history of contemporary fashion began in the 18th century, an idea that rings true throughout the exhibition. Pictured left: ’Prince de Ligne’ Gilet, 1750. Right: Robe ’Joséphine’, 1805
From ornate imperial court dress to mid-century haute couture and recent runway pieces, the exhibition delves deep into both the provenance and mythology of clothes. Pictured left: ’Habit Dauphin’, 1792. Right: ’Denise Poiret’ coat, Paul Poiret, 1922
’The point of this exhibition is to reveal the intimate relationship between a garment and the person who wore it,’ Olivier Saillard explained. Pictured: ’Robes de Noces’ Mme Gachet, 1868
Pictured left: Robe ’Audrey Hepburn’, Givenchy, 1966. Right: ’Cléo de Mérode’ jacket
Pictured left: ’Cape & Salomés’, Anna Gould. Right: ’Geneviève Page’ wedding dress, Dior with YSL, 1959
Pictured left: ’Pantalon d’ouvrier’ (worker pants). Right: Robe ’Duchessse de Windsor’, Dior par Marc Bohan, 1972
INFORMATION
’Anatomy of A Collection’ runs from May 14 - October 23 at the Musée Galliera, Paris. For more information, visit the website
Photography: © Eric Poitevin, 2016
ADDRESS
10 Avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie, Rue de Galliera
75016 Paris, France
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Beloved sushi restaurant Sōgo Roll Bar comes to Highland Park
The sushi hangout begins a new chapter in its second location, becoming the perfect spot for a quick grab-and-go or a relaxed tasting experience in east LA
-
Japanese designer Shinichiro Ogata's latest venture is a modern riff on the traditions of his home country
As he launches Saboe, a series of new tearooms and shops across Japan, we delve into Shinichiro Ogata's creative vision, mirrored throughout the spaces and objects, rituals and moments of his projects
-
These are Dover Street Market’s jewellery designers to watch, exhibiting at the London store all summer
In a special exhibition, Dover Street Market London is highlighting 36 emerging jewellery designers to know – shop our pick of their pieces
-
What to see at Rencontres d’Arles 2025, questioning power structures in the state and family
Suppressed memories resurface in sharply considered photography at Rencontres d'Arles 2025. Here are some standout photographers to see
-
‘With a small gesture of buying a postcard, we all become copyists’: the Louvre’s celebration of copying speaks to human nature
Contemporary artists are invited to copy works from the Louvre in a celebration of the copyist’s art, a collaboration with Centre Pompidou-Metz
-
Wolfgang Tillmans brings a performative edge to bibliophilia at the Centre Pompidou’s library
As the Centre Pompidou’s library is emptied ahead of the venue’s five-year restoration, the German photographer moves in for a final fling of a Paris exhibition
-
A song for the dead – Josh Homme on performing for six million souls in the bowels of the Paris Catacombs
A rock band, a brush with death and an underground tomb coalesce in haunting new Queens of the Stone Age film, ‘Alive in the Catacombs’. Wallpaper* meets frontman Josh Homme and director Thomas Rames
-
The glory years of the Cannes Film Festival are captured in a new photo book
‘Cannes’ by Derek Ridgers looks back on the photographer's time at the Cannes Film Festival between 1984 and 1996
-
Technology, art and sculptures of fog: LUMA Arles kicks off the 2025/26 season
Three different exhibitions at LUMA Arles, in France, delve into history in a celebration of all mediums; Amy Serafin went to explore
-
Contemporary artist collective Poush takes over Château La Coste
Members of Poush have created 160 works, set in and around the grounds of Château La Coste – the art, architecture and wine estate in Provence
-
‘David Hockney 25’: inside the artist’s blockbuster Paris show
‘David Hockney 25’ has opened at Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris. Wallpaper’s Hannah Silver took a tour of the colossal, colourful show