Our favourite pieces from the A/W 2022 collections

Left, hat, price on request, by Raf Simons (left). Right, shirt, £4,500; trousers, £3,300, both by Prada. Fashion: Jason Hughes

(Image credit: Matthieu Lavanchy)

By Jack Moss

last updated 2 September 2022

Contributions from
Matthieu Lavanchy - Photography

in Features

A balloon-shaped bra. A biker glove. A gravity-defying heel. Surreal and sublime, here are the 11 things Wallpaper* wants most from the AW 2022 collections.

Head on: Raf Simons (above left)

Inspired by the attire seen in Pieter Bruegel the Elder’s 1559 painting Netherlandish Proverbs, Raf Simons’ collection included a series of hats created with master milliner Stephen Jones – from fuzzy helmets to a cap that fell away into a cloak.

New utility: Prada (above right)

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons proposed a new menswear uniform at Prada, injecting utilitarian garments with glamour. Case in point, a shirt and trousers (reminiscent of a boiler suit) rendered in high-gloss leather, uniting function and elegance.

Colour spectrum: Dries Van Noten

Fashion designer Dries Van Noten has channelled his mastery of colour into a new beauty collection, comprising lipsticks in 30 brazen shades of neon magenta, pumpkin orange and an ultra-saturated bruised raspberry called Latin Carmine. Mary Cleary

Model applies Dries Van Noten lipstick — Lipstick, £30, by Dries Van Noten

Dye job: Celine

Celine’s Triomphe monogram has become a defining symbol of Hedi Slimane’s tenure at the Parisian house. Here, it adorns the latest iteration of the ‘Triomphe’ handbag, reimagined this season in fluffy shearling, tie-dyed to unique effect.

Model with colourful shoulder bag by Celine A/W 2022 — Bag, £2,200, by Celine

Tipping point: Alaïa

Feats of engineering and technical accomplishment have long defined the house of Alaïa. Creative director Pieter Mulier continues this legacy, encapsulated here in a pair of gravity-defying pumps with a slanted heel, screwed on Meccano-style.

Close-up of white shoe by Alaïa A/W 2022 — Shoes, £1,100, by Alaïa

Head to toe: Salvatore Ferragamo

Salvatore Ferragamo’s menswear collection offered top-to-toe dressing with lithe all-in-ones, and sweaters with hoods. Worn together, they provide a streamlined layer of protection against the elements, preparation for the change in seasons.

Model wears red and black all-in-one by Salvatore Ferragamo A/W 2022 — Sweater, £720; all-in-one, £1,085, both by Salvatore Ferragamo

In season: Bottega Veneta

Matthieu Blazy’s debut as Bottega Veneta’s creative director was defined by his luxurious riffs on the quotidian, alongside playful moments, including this sequinned dress, recalling a kiwi fruit, sliced in half and ready to eat.

Model wears sequined dress by Bottega Veneta — Dress; boots, both price on request, by Bottega Veneta

Below zero: Hermès

This sheepskin-lined parka by Hermès, designed to envelop its wearer through the winter months, is part of a menswear collection that saw creative director Véronique Nichanian encapsulate moments of ‘joy and softness, effervescence and elegance’.

Model wears parka by Hermes A/W 2022 — Parka in Frost Blue, £18,000, by Hermès

Petrol head: Dior

Dior’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri gave the opera glove a high-octane update this season, recalling motocross riders and video-game racers with an elbow-length motorcycle glove in vivid panels of coloured leather.

Green, white and black Christian Dior glove, A/W 2022 — Gloves, £1,790, by Dior

Blow up: Loewe

‘A balloon creates tension, it will pop,’ says Jonathan Anderson of the Perspex balloons that provided a surreal flourish to his Loewe collection, whether squeezed between sandal straps or forming this bra, sitting atop a balloon-printed gown.

Call of the wild: Boucheron

Boucheron’s creative director Claire Choisne looked to the natural world for high jewellery collection Ailleurs – the ‘Feuillage Diamant’ cuff features aluminium strands woven around a green tourmaline as if they were blades of grass. Hannah Silver

INFORMATION

A version of this article appears in the September 2022 issue of Wallpaper*, available in print, on the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple News +. Subscribe to Wallpaper* today!

Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.

With contributions from

Matthieu Lavanchy - Photography