Film: Dries Van Noten show

Another city, another show, another tour-de-force by Dries Van Noten, which took place last night in Paris. Taking Van Noten’s ‘pinch of punk’ theme as a starting point, Etienne Russo once again worked his magic and orchestrated a show based around portability.
The models carried X-Mini II Capsule speakers in their hands, carrying the soundtrack with them as they toured the catwalk. A line of men operated spotlights from behind the single row of audience, aiming and turning their individual lights on the models as they walked past.
Dries’ inspiration for the music came from the bane of the urban commuter – kids playing their music out loud on public transport, the modern day ‘pinch of punk’ that we’re all accustomed to. And the soundtrack was just the sort of tunes you'd hear at the back of the bus: Crystallized by The XX, Candy Shop by 50 Cent and Sing It Back by Moloko.
Of course the experience was infinitely more pleasurable than a rabble of rowdy youths throwing insults and chips. Tailored jackets, military dressage and elegant but casual structures made for a chic but relaxed collection. And Russo’s production, as we should know by now to expect as standard, was slick as could possibly be.
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Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.
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