Mood board: ‘Here’s my chance to dance my way, Out of my constrictions’: just two uplifting lines from Funkadelic’s One Nation Under a Groove, so perninent in today’s fractured times. They bore particularly resonance with Sacai’s Chitose Abe for S/S 2020, who used the record’s cover as a pertinent t-shirt slogan. Constriction has never affected the designer, who is famed for creating hybrid garments from fractures of different silhouettes. For spring, her ‘harmonious’ designs included dresses spliced from ribbed knits and shirts, boucle suits with subversive pompom and transparent panels and gauzy pleated dresses overlaid with sporty paper bag skirts. The look was oversized and exaggerated, with rope belts and sculptural carabiners pulling silhouettes into place. Abe even create dresses which resembled chiffon lavalliere blouses trousers and a trenchcoat.
Best in show: A cartographical map print also evoked Abe’s harmonious vision. These were emblazoned in grayscale or in bold colour on transparent shirts, fluid dresses and flowing trousers. Finishing touches: Chunky chains have featured heavily on the spring catwalks, from Bottagea Veneta to Agnona, and here they were layered as thick chokers of varying thicknesses. Elsewhere, globe shape bags were carried or hung as pendants from long necklaces, like world-shape minaudieres.
Finishing touches: Chunky chains have featured heavily on the spring catwalks, from Bottagea Veneta to Agnona, and here they were layered as thick chokers of varying thicknesses. Elsewhere, globe shape bags were carried or hung as pendants from long necklaces, like world-shape minaudieres.
